Identification and description | |||||||||||||
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Name | HACKFALL | ||||||||||||
Location |
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Localisation | Latitude: 54.191424 Longitude: -1.6434455 National Grid Reference: SE2336377354 Map: Download a full scale map (PDF) |
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Overview | Heritage Category: Park and Garden Grade: I List Entry Number: 1000130 Date first listed: 10-May-1984 |
Pleasure grounds laid out c 1749-7 by the then owner, William Aislabie, with cascades,
ponds, rustic seats, follies and grottoes set in dramatic and varied natural scenery.
The site is an important and early example of one which exploited wild natural scenery
for its own sake.
HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT
The area was bought in 1731 by John Aislabie, who had laid out the grounds at nearby
Studley Royal (qv). After his death in 1742 his son William (1700-81) continued to
develop the grounds at Studley, and turned his attention to Hackfall where his mason
and gardener, Robert Doe, supervised the work. The site was much visited during the
C18 and C19, and visitors' accounts include those by Arthur Young (1771), William
Gilpin (1772), Sir Richard Colt Hoare (1800) and James Casmey (1859). Colt Hoare's
account contrasted the 'detestable, narrow, round, oval canals' at Studley with Hackfall,
saying 'it is impossible to convey by words a proper idea of the beautiful disposition
of wood, rock and water which nature has here so happily displayed' (quoted in Alex
Gordon Partnership 1991). More than two hundred parties of visitors were received
on the site in 1801 alone, and it was a 'mandatory stop on any northern garden itinerary'
(J Garden Hist 1987) which remained a popular destination for visitors until the 1920s.
In the mid C19 the grounds were acquired by Lord Ripon who expanded the system of
paths to the south-east. Hackfall was sold in 1932 and almost all the mature trees
were removed. Since that time there has been natural regeneration of trees and undergrowth.
The Woodland Trust acquired the site in 1989 and it remains in their ownership (1998).
DESCRIPTION
LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING Hackfall lies c 1km north-east of Grewelthorpe
and occupies the south and west sides of a steep craggy gorge through which the River
Ure flows in a sweeping bend. The Grewelthorpe Beck runs north-east across the site
to join the Ure through a steep, narrow-sided ravine lined with springs, including
calcareous springs which were a source of tufa used for many of the structures on
the site. The c 42ha site is bounded on the east side by the River Ure and on the
other sides by fencing separating it from open agricultural land.
ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES The entrances to the site are informal. A footpath leads
north-east into the site from the north end of Grewelthorpe, and another entrance,
c 700m north of the village, is via a footpath leading east from the road between
Grewelthorpe and Masham. There are a number of other paths leading into the site.
In the C18 the entrance was from a wicket gate next to the gardener's cottage on the
road just north of Grewelthorpe from which the gardener conducted tours around the
site.
GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS Hackfall is a heavily wooded site on a steep-sided gorge
cut through by numerous streams and springs. A survey of 1991 (Alex Gordon Partnership)
has shown that most of the watercourses were adapted as cascades, and one of the chief
characteristics of Hackfall is the sound of rushing, falling or dripping water which
can be heard in almost every part of the site.
The path from Grewelthorpe leads north-east alongside the Grewelthorpe Beck and c
400m north-east of the entrance a secondary path doubles back and leads south-westwards
to Kent's Seat, a ruinous stone alcove at the edge of a glade. This was named in honour
of William Kent and constructed to take advantage of views of the Alum Spring, a modified
natural feature which lies c 20m south of the seat and is composed of several springs
issuing from the base of a small crag which have created tufa formations. Kent's Seat
is mentioned in correspondence dated 1755 and is probably one of the earliest structures
made by Aislabie. The spring feeds into the Grewelthorpe Beck, and a path on the south
side of the Beck runs eastwards up the steep side of the gorge. At the top of the
gorge, c 300m east of the Alum Spring, is Mowbray Castle (listed grade II), a substantial
gothick folly built during the 1760s. Views to the north over the gorge are available
from it but views of it from the site have largely been obscured by trees. It is in
ruinous condition (1998). Lands in the area had been owned by Sir Roger de Mowbray
in the C12, and the connection with a romantic medieval figure may have been influential
in the choice of a Gothic style of architecture for the building.
From the Alum Spring the main path continues north-east to Fisher's Hall (listed grade
II), a folly dated 1750 which was probably the first structure to be erected on the
site. This is an octagonal gothick building clad in tufa which is now (1998) in poor
condition and roofless. The folly is close to the centre of the site and paths lead
off in several directions. A path to the east leads to the riverside, and turns northwards
along the riverbank to Weeping Rock, c 300m to the north. This is a large outcrop
of tufa overhanging the river, now largely obscured by trees, which is shown on an
engraving of 1809 and a watercolour by J M W Turner (reproduced in Alex Gordon Partnership
1991). A channel cut into the top of the rock was designed to feed a stream along
it to point where it cascaded into the Ure but the channel is now (1998) dry. Some
80m north of Weeping Rock is the site of Sandbed Hut, now completely overgrown, which
takes its name from its proximity to a sandy beach on the riverside, and was used
as a vantage point, most famously by Turner, for views of the river and Weeping Rock.
Paths run through the woodland to the south and east of Fisher's Hall in an area which
was added to the site in the C19 and is shown as woodland with paths running through
it on an estate map of 1832. The Dropping Well lies in dense undergrowth c 750m south-east
of Fisher's Hall and is a ruinous alcove and culvert which probably dates from the
C19 enlargement of the site.
A path which runs north-west from Fisher's Hall leads to the Grotto, c 60m to the
north-west, a ruinous covered seat constructed in the 1750s or 1760s from sandstone
and tufa. There were views from it of Forty Foot Fall, a cascade c 30m to the south-west,
which is adapted from a natural stream course and was made by constructing stone cascades
which interrupted the natural course of the stream. It now has only a trickle of water
and is heavily overgrown (1998). It was fed by a reservoir constructed c 1751 c 100m
south-west of the Grotto and the flow of water was controlled by sluices.
The path continues from the Grotto to a level area called Fountain Plain, c 70m to
the north-west, where there is a ruinous building called the Rustic Temple (listed
grade II), sometimes referred to as the Fountain House. The building is of half octagon
plan and is constructed of stone laid in Cyclopean blocks to evoke a primitive or
wild character. Some 10m south-west of the Temple there is a pond called Fountain
Pond which is shown, with a fountain, in a painting of 1767, which also shows the
Rustic Temple. The pond is partially silted up and overgrown (1998).
Some 70m north of Fountain Plain an area called Tent Plain was the site of a structure
described in 1769 as an open octagonal bench. This is shown on the 1832 map but not
on later maps. The 1852 OS map marks a number of summerhouses around Tent Plain but
little trace can be seen of these (1998).
Paths lead north and north-west up the steep side of the gorge until the edge of the
drop is reached and the path turns southwards and follows a route on the edge of the
gorge which affords views, partially obscured by trees, to the east. The route leads
past a shallow rectangular seating alcove in ruinous condition and on to the Banqueting
House (listed grade II), reached from a short flight of stone steps at a spot called
Mowbray Point. This lies c 200m west of Fisher's Hall but can only be reached by a
circuitous route owing to the steepness of the sides of the gorge. The building, which
is in ruinous condition (1998), is of stone and tufa with a mixture of gothick and
classical motifs. A terrace immediately in front (to the east) of it is on the edge
of a sheer drop and gives impressive views over the wooded gorge. The drop between
Mowbray Point and the river is more than 100m. Panoramic views through 180 degrees
(now partially obscured by trees) could be obtained from this point in which York
Minster and the towns of Northallerton and Thirsk could be seen. One of the most thrilling
effects (for example for Arthur Young in 1771) was the contrast between the view to
distant horizons with the sheer drop at one's feet with views down to Fisher's Hall
and the Ure far below. Trees and undergrowth obscure views of the structures in the
valley below (1998).
The Banqueting House was probably built in 1767, as one of the last buildings on the
site to be completed. It was used by William Aislabie as a private dining room and
remained in use through the C19 when it served as tea rooms. Some 20m to the south
the ruinous remains of a service building and kitchen, erected in 1771, stand amongst
trees.
REFERENCES Anon, The History of Ripon (1806), pp 231-8 J Garden History 7, no 4 (1987),
pp 307-411 Hackfall, (Alex Gordon Partnership 1991) Hackfall, Grewelthorpe, North
Yorkshire, (The Woodland Trust 1994)
Maps Estate Map of Hackfall, 1832 [reproduced in Woodland Trust 1994]
OS 6" to 1 mile: 1st edition published 1852
Archival items The Woodland Trust and Alex Gordon Partnership reports contain references
to and analysis of C18 and C19 visitors' accounts, guides and estate records relating
to Hackfall.
Description written: September 1998 Amended: March 1999 Register Inspector: CEH Edited:
October 1999
This garden or other land is registered under the Historic Buildings and Ancient Monuments Act 1953 within the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens by Historic England for its special historic interest.