Identification and description | |||||||||
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Name | PYLEWELL PARK | ||||||||
Location |
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Localisation | Latitude: 50.757633 Longitude: -1.5012694 National Grid Reference: SZ 35275 95456 Map: Download a full scale map (PDF) |
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Overview | Heritage Category: Park and Garden Grade: II* List Entry Number: 1000169 Date first listed: 31-May-1984 |
A late C18 landscape park with woodland walks and vistas which was developed at various
periods in the C19 and early C20 with a lake and informal, ornamental planting and
with accompanying formal parterres around the house.
HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT
The earliest known settlement of the Pylewell estate, recorded in Domesday Book, stood
on the site of Baddesley Manor, to the north of the present house which is thought
to have been occupied by a Knights Templar Preceptory in the C12 (Wilkie 1990). By
the C17 it may have been a fortified Jacobean Lodge (Phibbs 1988). From 1609 Pylewell
Ground was occupied by Sir Richard Worsley (Stagg 1979) and by 1677 the Worsleys,
whose family seat was across the Solent on the Isle of Wight at Appuldurcombe (qv),
had built or remodelled a house on the present site, Sir John Worsley's account books
providing evidence of the family being then in residence at Pylewell. Two early C18
engravings (Rocque, c 1700; Badeslade, 1739) show the grounds laid out with formal
gardens and with an avenue leading south to the Solent. The design is possibly associated
with the gardener and writer John James of Greenwich (1672-1746), who was employed
by Sir Robert Worsley at Appuldurcombe in 1710 (Campbell 1987), although it is unclear
how much of the layout shown in the engravings was actually planted. From 1777, Pylewell
was leased from the Worsleys by Ascanius William Senior, who bought it in 1781. Any
elements of a formal garden were swept away by a scheme of informal parkland and ornamental
walks, a new landscape that was maintained by Thomas Robbins who owned Pylewell from
1787 to 1801 (Warner 1784; survey by Henry de Bruyn, 1803). In 1801, Thomas Weld purchased
the estate for his son Joseph who made extensive improvements to the farms and gardens
including the imparkment of North Park by 1818 and the construction of South Lake
in 1822. Weld's improvements were continued from 1854 by Pylewell's next owner, William
Peers Williams-Freeman. He bought more land and built the Baddesley village school,
while in the gardens, a circular parterre was added south-east of the house. William
Ingham Whitaker acquired Pylewell in 1874, immediately making significant alterations
to the house and adding a new drive and lodge. He died in 1893 but further major extensions
to the house were continued by his son, also William Ingham Whitaker, following his
marriage in 1903. New parterres were laid out on the south-east front with surrounding
balustraded ha-has and the pleasure ground developed with Asian and Australasian plant
collections, a new lily pond, and bridges brought back from his travels to Japan.
A collection of rhododendrons was gradually established on the banks of the lake between
1912 and the early 1920s, at which time the entire gardens had reached their most
elaborate stage. William Ingham Whitaker III inherited Pylewell in 1936 and following
wartime use of the house and parkland, the early C20 east and west wings were demolished
in 1951. Minor additions were made to the terrace walk gardens east of the house from
the 1960s, the parterres on the south-east front were simplified, and the walled garden
leased as a commercial nursery. In 1988, Lord Teynham, William Ingham Whitaker III's
nephew, inherited Pylewell and the estate remains (1998) in private hands.
DESCRIPTION
LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING Pylewell Park is situated c 3km east
of Lymington, between the south side of Baddesley village and the Solent. The registered
site, which comprises c 17ha of formal and ornamental gardens including a 6ha lake,
and 130ha of parkland and woodland, lies on level ground which falls very slightly
towards the coast and is set within an open landscape of mixed farmland with occasional
small woods and copses. To the north the site is bounded by a minor lane and enclosed
by agricultural fencing and intermittent internal tree belts. To the east and west,
further fenced tree belts and areas of woodland within the site form the boundary
with adjacent open farmland, that on the east side occupied by the Mill House and
its fishpond and the buildings of Pylewell Home Farm beyond. To the south, the park's
perimeter woodland, cut by vista gaps from the house to the water, is fenced from
the channel of the Solent and the mudflats exposed at low tide.
ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES The entrance to Pylewell is from the lane to the north, beside
a lodge built in 1889 which stands opposite Baddesley school. A tarmacadam drive,
lined by holm oaks planted by William Ingham Whitaker III in the 1950s, follows a
gentle curve to a point some 100m north-east of the house. Here it crosses a ha-ha
which extends north-eastwards to the fishpond and south-westwards towards the western
park boundary. The house appears to have been approached on the north-east side from
the early C17 (Rocque, c 1700), although the line of the present drive is a minor
realignment by William Ingham Whitaker I of a route established by Joseph Weld during
his imparkment programme in 1818. Beyond the ha-ha, the drive turns south-westwards
to arrive on the circular tarmacadam forecourt on the north-east, entrance front of
the house. A further short section of drive enters the forecourt from the west. This
survives from an approach to the house from the west which was built, with the Chain
Lodge at its entrance (550m north-west of the house on Shotts Lane), by William Ingham
Whitaker in 1881. The ha-ha dates from the same period.
PRINCIPAL BUILDING Pylewell Park (listed grade II*) stands centrally within its park,
its south-east, garden front overlooking formal gardens and focused on three vista
lines cutting through the boundary woodland belt to give glimpses of the Solent and
the Isle of Wight. Built in ashlar stone and yellow brick and partly stuccoed, the
central three-storey, three-bay block is flanked by two-storey wings, the late C18
two-storey building with single-storey wings shown in the artist Thomas Rowlandson's
drawing of c 1784 (Rowlandson 1784) having been extended upwards by William Ingham
Whitaker and his son between 1874 and 1903. The wings, which Rowlandson depicts as
a single storey in height, each ending in a classical pavilion, appear to have been
mid to late C18 replacements for the turrets shown on Badeslade's engraving of 1739.
On the north-east, entrance front, the upper storey of both the main block and the
wings is formed by a mansard, added in 1874, and the house is roofed in slate. Further
extensions to the wings, added in the early C20, were demolished in 1951. A stable
block of C19 origin (it does not appear on de Bruyn's survey of 1803) stands c 100m
to the north-east.
GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS The formal gardens lie on the south-east front, the house
opening onto two rectangular parterres with, south-east beyond them and axial on the
central bay of the house, a large circular open lawn. Both the parterres and the circular
lawn are surrounded by perimeter gravelled paths and are enclosed from the park by
a low parapet wall and a ha-ha. They were laid out, probably by 1850 (Sale catalogue),
over Ascanius William Senior's extensive open lawn, framed by trees, which swept up
to the house. His informal landscape, which he created in the 1770s and 80s and which
removed any remaining formal garden features as shown in the Rocque and Badeslade
engravings, was both described and illustrated by visitors such as the Rev William
Gilpin (Gilpin 1794) and the artist Thomas Rowlandson (Rowlandson 1784). South-east
beyond the ha-ha, a further rectangular grassed terrace, also axial on the house,
extends 70m into the park. Enclosed by a stone balustrade formerly decorated with
lead urns (removed 1990s), which stands above a further ha-ha, this terrace was constructed
in 1912 by William Ingham Whitaker to provide tennis courts and a croquet lawn. South-west
of the parterres, an area of exotic trees and shrubbery, now (1990s) overgrown, occupies
the site of a sunken garden laid out in the 1920s (Gardeners¿ Chronicle 1923) over
a mid C19 bowling green (OS 1867).
North-east beyond the parterres, the path bordering their south-east side leads to
informal gardens and the Terrace Walk, a gravelled walk enclosed by camellia planting
of the 1960s which runs above a ha-ha along the south-east boundary of the gardens
with the park. The Walk appears to have been established as a further feature of the
late C18 informalisation of the landscape, both Gilpin in 1794 and Richard Warner
in 1793 describing encircling and shady walks around an extensive flat lawn with fine
views of the sea and de Bruyn's 1803 survey showing the boundary of the garden with
the park following the present line. The gardens on the north-west side of the Terrace
Walk, enclosed from the park on the north-east side by a late C19 high brick wall,
are laid out informally as the Summer Garden dating from the 1950s. The south-west
section, adjacent to the stables, is planted with exotic trees and shrubs and tender
wall plants, while the central section comprises an allée of cypress focused on a
seat to a design by Sir Edwin Lutyens. The north-east section contains a swimming
pool enclosed by a castellated hedge and with a vine-clad pavilion. North-east of
the pool, an informal grove of mixed trees contains an early C19 icehouse (listed
grade II) with an earth-covered passage and domed chamber.
Beyond the icehouse grove the Terrace Walk continues south-eastwards as a path leading
to the pleasure grounds on the east side of the park. South of the walled kitchen
garden, a gentle, descending grassed slope, on the site of a former gravel pit, is
planted informally with a collection of rare Asian and Australasian trees and shrubs.
Mown grass paths lead eastwards to the irregularly shaped Lily Pond which is embellished
with several Japanese bridges and planted abundantly on its banks with exotic water
plants, trees and ferns. The pond was dug in 1905 by William Ingham Whitaker III as
a setting for the bridges he brought back from Japan, the spoil being used to fill
the gravel pit (Wilkie 1990). The southern outlet from the Lily Pond flows into South
Lake, a 6ha linear sheet of water with four islands which extends south to the Solent.
Constructed c 1822 by Joseph Weld on former marshy ground, the lake originally had
three islands and, by 1898, two boathouses (now, 1998, gone). A walk encircles its
whole perimeter, the section along the east shore running alongside Plummer's Water,
the stream which feeds both the lake and the Lily Pond. The lake is set within mixed
broadleaved woodland comprising Lake Covert to the west, much of which is shown established
on de Bruyn's survey, and Otters Hill Copse to the east. Both woods contain collections
of rhododendrons planted in 1912-14 (Otters Hill) and in the early 1920s (Lake Covert).
PARK The park extends north and south of the house in roughly equal-sized areas. The
South Park, which is probably that indicated as a deer park on John Norden¿s county
map of c 1595, consists of a great expanse of open pasture with occasional tree clumps
sited towards the perimeter. This was created as a parkland lawn in the late C18 as
part of the informalisation of Pylewell's landscape. The lawn is framed to the south,
east, and west by belts of woodland threaded by paths, the woodland also largely of
C18 origin and comprising stands of mixed broadleaves and chestnut coppice. The belt
along the southern boundary is cut by three gaps to create vistas from the house to
the Solent and the Isle of Wight. South Park's landscape was described in 1793 by
Richard Warner as 'laid out with great simplicity .. belted by a shady walk with occasional
openings to the sea', and the layout is recorded on de Bruyn's 1803 survey. The central
vista, axial on the house, is lined at its extreme southern end by a double oak avenue
which appears to stand on a similar line to the avenue shown running from the formal
gardens to the Solent on both Rocque (c 1700) and Badeslade's (1739) engravings. De
Bruyn's survey however shows woodland abutting the vista gap, with individual avenue
trees only appearing in the late C19 (OS 1867) when the gap appears to have been widened.
North Park is also largely open in character and under arable cultivation, although
with permanent pasture immediately north-west of the house where there are occasional
rondels of trees, these replanted in the mid C20. North Park was imparked and planted
between 1803 and 1818 by Joseph Weld (Wilkie 1990), but the scatter of trees it contained
in 1867 (OS) was mostly removed in 1944 when the park was levelled for the construction
of an airfield. Immediately east of the main drive, c 300m north of the house and
lying beneath pasture, is the site of Baddesley Manor, the first house built at Pylewell.
It was demolished, with its chapel, in 1819, following the removal of adjacent cottages
in 1815 (Wilkie 1990). East of the Manor site is a short length of mature lime avenue,
probably of early C18 origin, which ran eastwards from its curtilage and along the
south side of the present Dod's Pond, now tree-fringed and silted up, which was excavated
in the early C19 (Phibbs 1988).
KITCHEN GARDEN The kitchen garden, which stands 450m east of the house, is a roughly
rectangular enclosure with red-brick walls which is now (1999) leased as a commercial
nursery. Built in the early C19 as part of Joseph Weld's improvements, it replaced
a former walled kitchen garden which stood to the north of the stables. South of its
south wall is a range of C19 glasshouses, two of which are also leased for nursery
use although they are currently (1998) in a dilapidated state. Some 40m north of the
garden and adjacent to Weld¿s Mill House and former farm complex (outside the registered
site) is an octagonal brick dairy with a conical roof (listed grade II) built between
1898 and 1907 (OS editions).
REFERENCES
Thomas Badeslade and John Rocque, Vitruvius Britannicus IV, (1739), pls 102, 103 Thomas
Rowlandson, Tours in a Post-chaise (1784) Richard Warner, Topographical Remarks relating
to the South Western Parts of Hampshire (1784) William Gilpin, Remarks on Forest Scenery
and Other Woodland Views (2nd edn 1794) Victoria History of the County of Hampshire
IV, (1911), p 616 Gardeners¿ Chronicle, (21 July 1923) P Coats, Great Gardens of Britain
(1967), pp 229-33 A Paterson, The Gardens of Britain 2, (1978), pp 135-6 D Stagg,
Calendar of New Forest Documents (1979) S Campbell, Research on Pylewell Park, (unpublished
papers, Hampshire County Council 1987) J Phibbs, Ring count analysis, Pylewell Park,
(unpublished papers, Hampshire County Council 1988). K Wilkie, Pylewell Park Landscape
Restoration and Management Plan, (English Heritage 1990)
Maps John Norden, Map of Hampshire, c 1595 Henry de Bruyn, A survey of Pylewell Park,
1803 (D10/C89), (Dorset Record Office)
OS 6" to 1 mile: 1st edition surveyed 1867 2nd edition published 1898 3rd edition
published 1909 1931 edition OS 25" to 1 mile 3rd edition published 1908 1932 edition
Illustrations J Rocque, engraving, c 1700 (reproduced in Wilkie 1990) T Badeslade,
Engraving of Pylewell Park, c 1739 (in Badeslade and Rocque 1739)
Archival items Sale catalogue of Pylewell estate, 1850 (Weld papers D10/E176), (Dorset
Record Office) Account books of the Worsley family, 1642¿6, 1677, 1762 (Jer/WA/33/1),
(Isle of Wight Record Office)
Description written: November 1998 Amended: July 2000 Register Inspector: VCH Edited:
February 2004
This garden or other land is registered under the Historic Buildings and Ancient Monuments Act 1953 within the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens by Historic England for its special historic interest.