Identification and description | |||||||
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Name | Grosvenor Square | ||||||
Location |
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Localisation | Latitude: 51.511515 Longitude: -0.15142106 National Grid Reference: TQ 28378 80796 Map: Download a full scale map (PDF) |
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Overview | Heritage Category: Park and Garden Grade: II List Entry Number: 1000807 Date first listed: 01-Oct-1987 Date of most recent amendment: 16-Oct-2019 Location Description: Statutory Address 1: Grosvenor Square, Mayfair, Westminster, London, W1K 2HP |
In 1720 Sir Richard Grosvenor, 4th Baronet (1689-1732), commissioned his family estate
surveyor, Thomas Barlow, to prepare to develop his family’s Hundred Acre estate in
Mayfair. Barlow planned an estate based on a grid pattern of spacious streets with
a garden at its centre. It is believed that the Grosvenor Estate was amongst the first
of the major London estates to establish an extensive garden at the centre of its
new residential development. It is also understood to be the first example of a London
garden square taking on an oval shape and inspired the form of other squares across
the capital. The original design has previously been attributed to William Kent; however,
it was more likely designed by the gardener and surveyor John Alston (Alston plan,
1725-1726). Grosvenor invested £2871 on the garden’s design, including a wall-and-fence
boundary, elm edging, and turf, mixed and flowering shrubs, plants and evergreens;
it was likely intended to attract buyers to the surrounding development. The garden
square was laid out as a wilderness garden, with trees and shrubs divided by a geometric
pattern of intersecting paths and bounded by a perimeter walk. It was amongst the
first to be planted in this way and followed the contemporary ideas of garden writer
Thomas Fairchild who advocated laying out city squares in a ‘Rural Manner’ in his
publication The City Gardener (1722). At the centre was a raised square grassed platform
with an equestrian statue of George I by John Nest; erected in 1726, it was the first
statue of its kind to be placed within a garden square. Radiating from the centre
on each of the four sides and the diagonals were paths which led to a perimeter walk
(Racquet map, 1746). There were entrances on each of the four sides which were centered
on the elevations of buildings fronting the squares.
The geometric plan was maintained until around 1774 when the garden’s layout was modified
by George Richardson following a resident’s petition for a private Act of Parliament
to alter and enclose the garden. The diagonal paths were removed and the planting
amalgamated into four quarters arranged around the original central grass platform
and statue; within the quarters were oval-shaped clumps of shrubs and this was amongst
the earliest occurrences of shrubberies within a London square.
In 1835 the Grosvenor Square Act was passed leading to changes in the square’s management,
including laying the paths to tarmacadam. During the C19 the elm trees were replaced
with London planes. Between 1844 and 1854 the central equestrian statue was removed,
with only the pedestal remaining until the mid-C20. By the 1850s, the square ceased
to be exclusively for the use of the residents. By the 1st Edition Ordnance Survey
map (1:2500; 1875), the garden had been extended at the corners thereby broadening
the oval shape. The 2nd Edition Ordnance Survey map (1:2500; 1895) shows the number
of trees had been reduced, circular paths added at the ends of the axial walks and
a small rectangular pavilion erected on the west side of the square (no longer extant).
By the early C20, the square became populated with a large number of irregularly grouped
trees and a tennis court had been laid out in one of the quarters. Many of the buildings
around the square were redeveloped in the 1920s and 1930s in a neo-Georgian style
and were increased in height. During the Second World War, barrage balloons were anchored
in the square, temporary buildings were erected and the metal perimeter railings were
removed and replaced with chain-link fencing.
After the Second World War, the square underwent a major phase of redesign including
the creation of a memorial statue to the President of the United States of America,
Franklin Delano Roosevelt (1882-1945). The American association with Grosvenor Square
began in 1785 when the first Minister to the Court of St James, John Adams, rented
9 Grosvenor Square; his wife Abigail referred to the garden as one of the ‘most reputable
and prettiest Squares in London’. In the early C20 the American embassy was at number
7 and in 1938 it moved to number 1. During the Second World War, General Eisenhower's
headquarters were located at number 20, and the square became informally known as
‘Eisenhowerplatz’ or 'Little America'. The Roosevelt Memorial Act was passed in November
1946, and the President Roosevelt Memorial Committee was subsequently established
to transform the garden into a publically accessible memorial space. The management
of the square passed to the Royal Parks Division of the Ministry of Works although
the freehold remained with the Grosvenor Estate. The square’s layout was redesigned
between 1947 and 1948 by Bertram William Leonard Gallannaugh, FRIBA (1900-1957), in
order to accommodate the FD Roosevelt statue designed by Sir William Reid Dick (1879-1961)
(listed Grade II). The statue was positioned at the north end of Grosvenor Square;
the contemporary landscape designed by Gallannaugh included a raised platform on which
the statue and plinth was placed, and two flanking paved courts in which pools of
water bounded by stone seating, within the pools were bronze fountains. The Roosevelt
memorial was placed at the termination of a new north-south axial path laid in Portland-stone
paving; the path was flanked in the middle by flower beds and a winding network of
gravel paths. The location of the southern entrance was retained with a new gateway;
however, the others were replaced by four corner entrances which corresponded with
triangular pedestrian islands added later in the 1950s to the roads beyond the square.
The Gallannaugh scheme included a low perimeter wall and yew hedge. Over 60 mature
trees were felled and, although some London plane trees were retained, others were
replaced by new London planes and cherries. The Roosevelt statue was unveiled in April
1948; the ceremony was attended by Eleanor Roosevelt, members of the Royal family
including King George VI, and British politicians.
The buildings on the north and west side of the square, which had suffered from bomb
damage during the Second World War, were developed in the 1950s and 1960s including
the creation of the American Embassy on the west side. From 1954-1960, the United
States of America carried out a global embassy building programme as part of its Cold
War strategy and Grosvenor Square was chosen as the site for their new embassy to
the United Kingdom. The building was designed by Finnish architect Eero Saarinen (1910-1961)
and built between 1958 and 1961; the embassy closed in 2018 and the building is currently
(2019) being converted into a hotel.
Due to its proximity with the American embassy, the square attracted political attention
in the latter half of the C20, including being the site of demonstrations on 17 March
1968 when, following a rally in Trafalgar Square to protest the Vietnam War, thousands
of people gathered in Grosvenor Square and in front of the embassy which was surrounded
by police officers. The protests in and around the square involved some of the more
influential cultural figures of that era, including John Lennon and Yoko Ono, Vanessa
Redgrave and Tariq Ali; also alongside them was the now less remembered presence of
Sir Mick Jagger; but who equally felt moved to protest at the events in Vietnam. Over
300 people were arrested, 86 people were injured, and 50 were taken to hospital, including
25 police officers. We know the protests that day at Grosvenor Square had a significant
impact on Britain’s leading cultural figures and may have inspired, in part, popular
songs such as Street Fighting Man by the Rolling Stones, written by (Sir) Mick Jagger
and Keith Richards and Revolution by The Beatles, written by John Lennon.
In the 1970s, the layout of the paths either side of the north-south axial walkway
was modified to create diagonal paths as well as a perimeter walk. Flower beds either
side of the central walkway were removed and new beds were laid out at its north end.
The perimeter yew hedge was replaced by holly. In 1984, a set of gates on the south
side of the square were unveiled and dedicated as the Diplomatic Gates to commemorate
the bicentenary of the 1783 Treaty of Paris which marked the end of the American War
of Independence between Great Britain and America; the dedication was marked by a
bronze plaque and engraved stone dedication in the gate’s threshold. In 1985 the Eagle
Squadrons Memorial (listed at Grade II) was added at the southern end of the central
pathway. The memorial was originally considered for Berkeley Square due to its historic
association with the Eagle Squadrons, however, the memorial was not able to be placed
there due to planning restrictions, and it was instead placed in Grosvenor Square.
It was funded by the Hearst Corporation of America and commissioned by the Eagle Squadrons
Association. The memorial commemorates the 244 Americans and the 16 British fighter
pilots and other personnel who served in the three Royal Air Force Eagle Squadrons
in the Second World War. The bronze eagle which tops the memorial was sculpted by
Dame Elisabeth Frink (1930-1993). In the mid-1990s further modifications to the garden
included the re-routing of the paths which were resurfaced in tarmacadam, as well
as changes to the perimeter railing and pedestrian guard rails.
In 2003, a garden of remembrance was laid out on the east side of the square to commemorate
the sixty-seven Britons who died in the September 11 attacks in 2001 on the World
Trade Centre and the Pentagon. It replaced a mid-C20 shelter. The oval garden was
designed by Land Use Consultants; it includes a timber pavilion and pergola designed
by Carden and Godfrey Architects, and at the centre is a stone plaque designed by
Richard Kindersley under which was placed a small piece of rubble taken from the Ground
Zero site in New York. The planting, informed by suggestions from families of those
who had lost their lives, consists of North American and British species that specifically
flower and are at their best in September to coincide with the anniversary of the
attacks.
In 2011 the central walkway’s Portland paving stones were replaced with a limestone;
the replacement stone has been subject to subsequent patch repairs following weather
damage.
Garden square first laid out in the early-C18 as part of the Grosvenor Estate development
for Sir Richard Grosvenor, to designs by John Alston. The layout was modified by George
Richardson in the late-C18, the garden was enlarged in the C19, it was redesigned
between 1947 and 1948 by BWL Gallannaugh and later modifications occurred in the late
C20 and early C21.
LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING Grosvenor Square, around 2 hectares,
is laid out on level ground and is located in Mayfair, central London, in the grid
of streets to the south of Oxford Street, east of Park Lane, west of New Bond Street,
and north of Piccadilly. It is located within the Mayfair Conservation Area. The oval
garden is enclosed by a mid-C20 low wall, and late-C20 chain-link fence and holly
hedge. It has an entrance in the centre of the south side and entrances at the four
corners, all of the gates are mid-C20 and late-C20 in date. The southern entrance
incorporates the late-C20 Diplomatic Gate and in the pavement to the south is a bronze
plaque and an engraved stone memorial inscription to the Treaty of Paris of 1784.
The gardens are surrounded by the road and buildings of the square, which are on a
rectangular plan. There are mid-C20 triangular pedestrian islands beyond the square’s
corner entrances. The islands on the east side of the garden contain a mid-C20 police
public callbox (listed grade II) and two late-C20 statues to President Dwight Eisenhower
and President Ronald Regan; currently (2019) these structures have been temporarily
removed due to nearby construction work.
Most of the buildings in the Square were rebuilt in the mid-C20, including the former
United States of America Embassy (listed Grade II) to the west. The surviving earlier
buildings include 38 (early-C18, listed Grade II*), 9 (early-C18, listed Grade II),
and 4 (mid-C19, listed Grade II). Roads enter the square from the north-west (North
Audley Street and Upper Brook Street), north-east (Duke Street and Brook Street),
south-west (South Audley Street and Upper Grosvenor Street), and south-east (Grosvenor
Street and Carlos Place). Some of the surrounding buildings on Grosvenor Square are
currently (2019) being converted, or have permission for the conversion, to apartments
and hotels.
GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS The garden is largely laid to lawn, with trees and planting
of various dates including London plane trees, cherries and other scattered trees
and shrubs including ailanthus, malus, and thorn.
In the centre of the north side of the garden is the statue of Franklin D Roosevelt
(1948, listed Grade II), with a life-size bronze on a corniced stone pedestal. This
statue’s plinth is set on a raised square stone-paved platform with steps on three
sides and low stone caskets at each corner which are each topped by a dates that mark
the four terms of office served by President Roosevelt. The platform is flanked by
two elongated semi-circular paved courts enclosed by low walls; they each include
stone seating and a central pond with a bronze fountain. The walls are inscribed with
one of the Four Freedoms: FREEDOM FROM WANT; FREEDOM FROM FEAR; FREEDOM OF SPEECH;
FREEDOM TO WORSHIP. To the south of the memorial is a square area of paving (re-paved
in 2011), with a large late-C20 flower bed to either side, bordered by yew hedging
and backed by pleached limes. From the beds, a broad path (also re-paved, in 2011
with subsequent repairs) runs south to the southern entrance, lined by late-C20 and
early-C21 wooden benches. At the southern end is a memorial to the Eagle Squadrons
(1985, listed Grade II), with a bronze eagle on a tall stone plinth, which faces north
to the Roosevelt memorial.
At the centre of the garden, four late-C20 paths lead diagonally in each direction
to the corner entrances. Further late-C20 tarmacadam paths, incorporating sections
of the routes from the mid-C20 gravel path scheme, wind between these, forming a continuous
path around the garden.
On the east side is an oval September 11 memorial garden, added in 2003, surrounded
by railings and an evergreen hedge. It includes a central inscribed round stone plaque,
flower beds, and a pavilion with bronze plaques that commemorate the citizens of the
United Kingdom who died in the attacks on the World Trade Centre and the Pentagon
in 2001 and attached pergolas, all constructed in green oak.
Garden square first laid out in the early-C18 as part of the Grosvenor Estate development for Sir Richard Grosvenor, to designs by John Alston. The layout was modified by George Richardson in the late-C18, the garden was enlarged in the C19, it was redesigned between 1947 and 1948 by BWL Gallannaugh and later modifications occurred in the late C20 and early C21.
This garden or other land is registered under the Historic Buildings and Ancient Monuments Act 1953 within the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens by Historic England for its special historic interest.
Grosvenor Square, City of Westminster, London, first laid out in the early-C18 as
part of the Grosvenor Estate development for Sir Richard Grosvenor, to designs by
John Alston, and altered in the C19 and C20, is registered at Grade II for the following
principal reasons:
Historic Interest: * for its influential design as an early-C18 oval-shaped garden
square, which despite C19 modifications to its profile, maintains an oval form; *
it forms the centre of the early phase of the Grosvenor Estate, and is thought to
be amongst the first of the major London estates to establish a garden at the centre
of its residential development; * for its pioneering use of a formal wilderness planting
scheme in the early C18; * for its role as the focus for commemorating Anglo-American
political relations following the Second World War with the 1947-1948 re-landscaping
which provides a design context for the statue of President Roosevelt; this association
has continued with the addition of further memorials including the Eagle Squadrons
memorial, the Diplomatic Gates and the 9/11 memorial garden;
Group Value: * with the statue of President Roosevelt and the Eagle Squadrons memorial
(both listed at Grade II) and with the surrounding listed buildings and structures
facing onto the Square.
Books and journals
Chancellor, E B, The History of the Squares of London, (1907), 23-41
Dasent, A I, A History of Grosvenor Square, (1935), 16-25
Longstaffe-Gowan, T, The London Square: gardens in the midst of town, (2012)
Pevsner, N, Bradley, S, The Buildings of England: London 6 Westminster, (2003), 529-531
Sheppard, F H W, Survey of London: Volume 40: The Grosvenor Estate in Mayfair, Part 2 (The Buildings), (1980), 112-117
'The Roosevelt Memorial, London' in The Builder, , Vol. 174, (7 May 1948), 538-540
'Memorial to FDR' in The Architect and Building News, (9 April 1948), 323
Websites
1968: Anti-Vietnam War demonstation, accessed 14 August 2019 from http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/march/17/newsid_2818000/2818967.stm
Grosvenor Square, accessed 14 August 2019 from http://www.londongardenstrust.org/history/squares1700.htm
Other
1st Edition Ordnance Survey map 1:2500, 1875
2nd Edition Ordnance Survey map 1:2500, 1895
Gallanaugh, Bertram William Leonard (ibid) Biographical File held at RIBA Library
GSQLR, March 2019, Grosvenor Square Garden Heritage Report for an Enhancement to the Register of Parks and Gardens Entry
John Alston, The Garden Ovall plan of Grosvenor Square, 1725-1726, Westminster City Archives
John Roque, Plan of the Cities of London and Westminster and Borough of Southwark, 1746
LMA/4625/B/01/013, Eagle Squadron War Memorial, Grosvenor Square, London Metropolitan Archives
MAL/83005, 15 April 1983, Historic England Air Photographs
OS/70299, 14 August 1970, Historic England Air Photographs
RAF/106G/UK/739, 27 August 1945, Historic England Air Photographs
RAF/543/1059, 13 September 1960, Historic England Air Photographs
RAF/58/171, 29 December 1948, Historic England Air Photographs
RAF/CPE/UK/2196, 2 August 1947, Historic England Air Photographs
T Longstaffe-Gowan, October 2016, Grosvenor Square Gardens: Some Imperfect Thoughts on its Future