Identification and description | |||||||||||||||||
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Name | ST GILES' HOUSE | ||||||||||||||||
Location |
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Localisation | Latitude: 50.916908 Longitude: -1.9674011 National Grid Reference: SU0238813050 Map: Download a full scale map (PDF) |
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Overview | Heritage Category: Park and Garden Grade: II* List Entry Number: 1000723 Date first listed: 19-Dec-1986 Date of most recent amendment: 11-Feb-2013 Statutory Address 1: St. Giles House, Wimborne St. Giles, Wimborne, Dorset, BH21 5NA |
In the late C14 the manor of Wimbome St Giles passed by marriage from the Plecy family
to Sir John Hamley.When Sir John died in 1398,the property was inherited by his daughter
by his second marriage,who was the wife of Robert Ashley.The estate has remained the
property of the Ashley and Ashley Cooper family ever since.In the late C16,the estate
was inherited by Sir Anthony Ashley,Clerk to the Privy Council,who is said to have
introduced from Holland,and grown at St Giles,the cabbage (CL, 1904).When Sir Anthony
died in 1627 the estate passed to his only daughter who was married to Sir John Cooper
of Rockbourne,Hampshire,and was mother to Sir Anthony Ashley Cooper.He was an ambitious
politician who served first the Crown,and later Parliament during the Civil War,and
who was created Lord Chancellor and Earl of Shaftesbury in 1672.The first Earl died
in exile in 1682 after being involved in a plot to remove James II.The Earl's grandson,also
Anthony Ashley Cooper,who succeeded as third Earl in 1699,suffered from inherited
asthma and spent much time at St Giles,where,having been tutored by John Locke(1632-1704),he
wrote a series of philosophical tracts which were published as Characteristicks of
Men, Manners, Opinions, Times(1711).In The Moralists(1709)the third Earl set out an
aesthetic philosophy which influenced the move towards a more natural style of garden
design in the C18.The third Earl died at Naples in 1713,and was succeeded by his son
who began a campaign of improvements at St Giles.The parish church was rebuilt in
1732 (CL,1943),and in 1740-4 Henry Flitcroft(1679-1769)was commissioned to make extensive
alterations to the mid C17 house built by the first Earl.At the same time,the fourth
Earl made significant alterations to the first Earl's gardens.Bishop Pococke,visiting
in 1754,noted a serpentine 'river' with an island on which stood a castle,a castellated
gateway,Chinese bridge,a stone bridge,a circular pavilion dedicated to Shakespeare,and
other features(Oswald,1959).A grotto,decorated by 'Mr Castles of Mary le bone' was
constructed in 1751-3, in part using exotic Jamaican shells given to the Earl by his
neighbour, Alderman Beckford of Fonthill, Wiltshire (qv) (Mowl, 2003). Lady Shaftesbury
was a friend of the composer G F Handel (1685-1759) who was frequently entertained
at St Giles (CL, 1915; Mowl, 2003).
The fourth Earl died in 1771, and was succeeded by his son. The fifth Earl left no
son, and in 1811 the estate passed to his younger brother. The seventh Earl (1801-85)
was the noted C19 social reformer and philanthropist who chaired the Lunacy Commission
from 1834, and piloted the Lunacy Act (1845), and the Factory Acts (1847, 1850, 1859)
through Parliament. The Coal Mines Act (1842) prohibited the employment of women and
children under 13 in the mines. The Earl commissioned P C Hardwick to make alterations
to St Giles in 1854. The estate continued in the possession of successive Earls of
Shaftesbury throughout the C19 and C20. In the early C20, a formal sunken garden was
created east of the house, while the kitchen garden was converted into an ornamental
flower and fruit garden. The house was reduced in size in the late C20 and was in
2004 unoccupied.
LOCATION,AREA,BOUNDARIES,LANDFORM,SETTING St Giles House is situated on Cranborne
Chase,c.2km south-west of Cranborne,and c.11km north of Wimborne Minster.The c.230ha
site comprises some 30ha of gardens and pleasure grounds,and c.200ha of parkland,plantations
and ornamental drives.The site is bounded to the east and south-east by the B3078
road which leads north from Wimborne Minster to Cranborne,while to the north the boundary
is formed by a minor road leading west from the B3078 road to the village of Wirnborne
St Giles,which adjoins the site to the north-west.To the west and south-west the site
adjoins agricultural land.A circuit of carriage drives to the north-west of the house
and park extends c.2.5km north-west to Ackling Dyke,a Roman road leading north-east
from Badbury Rings to Old Sarum;the area of agricultural land enclosed within the
circuit of drives is not included in the registered site.The registered site contains
a number of scheduled and unscheduled barrows and a camp that abuts the east boundary.The
Round House or Philosopher's Tower to the east of the B3078 road is included in the
registered site as an outlying structure.The park and pleasure grounds occupy generally
level ground.To the west the site falls gently to the River Allen,which flows from
north-west to south-west through the pleasure grounds;the ground rises to the south-west
beyond the river.The extended carriage drives follow a ridge of high ground,affording
extensive views across the surrounding undulating chalk downland which is rich in
tumuli and other prehistoric remains.From the pleasure grounds and park the ruins
of Knowlton Church and a group of tumuli planted with yews(outside the area here registered)serves
as an eye-catcher,while land to the east of the B3078 road(with the exception of the
Round House,outside the registered site)formed a C16 or earlier deer park.
ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES The principal entrance to St Giles House is from the village
of Wimborne St Giles to the north-west.A minor road extends along the eastern side
of the village green,passing immediately west of the early C17 almshouses built by
Sir Anthony Ashley,and the parish church of St Giles which was rebuilt by the fourth
Earl of Shaftesbury in 1732.The road leads to an entrance marked by an early or mid
C19 single-storey red brick lodge in cottage ornee style which adjoins a pair of wrought-iron
carriage gates supported by brick and stone piers.Beyond the entrance a tarmac drive
extends c.100m south through an area of evergreen shrubbery and trees to reach a pair
of late C18 or early C19 single-storey stone and stucco lodges (derelict 2002) which
flank a pair of stone piers supporting wrought-iron carriage gates.The drive continues
south-south-west beyond the lodges,entering the pleasure grounds north of the house
and after c.200m turning sharply east to reach a circular carriage turn below the
north facade of the house.Further entrances are situated to the south,south-east,east,north-east
and north sides of the park.The north entrance,immediately north-east of the kitchen
garden,is marked by a late C18 or early C19 single-storey octagonal lodge.The north-east
or Cranborne Lodge,the south-east lodge and south or Wimborne Lodge are also of late
C18 or early C19 construction,and are marked on the Tithe map(1839).The east entrance
is marked by an early or mid C19 cottage-ornee style lodge of predominantly brick
construction.Drives lead from Wimborne Lodge,the south-east lodge,and the north lodge
through the park,while a drive extending north-east and east from the carriage turn
passes to the south of the early C17 riding house,stables and barns(all listed Grade
II*)which are arranged around a courtyard c.150m north-east of the house.
PRINCIPAL BUILDING St Giles House(listed Grade I)stands on a level site towards the
western boundary of the park.Constructed in brick with ashlar dressings under hipped
slate and lead roofs,the house comprises two storeys and an attic lit by dormer windows.The
north entrance façade has a central stone doorcase with a round-headed doorway surmounted
by a pediment supported on rusticated Tuscan columns.The parapet is castellated,while
the windows are articulated by ashlar architraves.The east façade,facing towards the
early C20 sunken garden and the park,has rusticated quoins and a further centrally-placed
door case,in this instance surmounted by a broken scrolled pediment.The plain parapet
is surmounted by a series of ball finials.The south façade,facing down towards the
pleasure grounds is of similar design to the east façade.A service wing projects at
the south-west corner of the house.The house was originally constructed in 1651 by
Sir Anthony Ashley,later fifth Earl of Shaftesbury,who may have employed John Webb
on the interiors(listed building description).The mid C17 house was extensively altered
for the fourth Earl in 1740-4 by Henry Flintcroft,while further extensions and alterations
were made in the late C18,perhaps by Sir John Soane,and again in 1813-20 by Thomas
Cundy. Further alterations were made for the seventh Earl by P C Hardwick in 1854.The
C18 work included the addition of the castellated parapets,while the early C19 improvements
included the roofing-over the C17 central courtyard.Service quarters built in the
early and mid C19 to the north-west of the original house were demolished in the 1970s.
GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS A small formal garden is situated to the east of the
house,while the informal pleasure grounds around the lake extend to the south of the
house.A stone flagged terrace extends below the east façade of the house,overlooking
an approximately square sunken garden,the sides of which are retained by low brick
walls.A flight of stone steps descends from the east terrace to the sunken garden,the
central point of which is marked by a circular,stone-kerbed pool.A grass walk extends
east along the central axis of the eastern side of the garden,which affords views
across the park,from which it is separated by a ha-ha.The sunken garden,which is no
longer cultivated(2002),was laid out c 1900,and is illustrated in early C20 photographs
published by Country Life(CL, 1904,J 915).To the north,the garden is adjoined by an
area of level lawn which is bounded by the drive leading from the carriage turn to
the stables north-east of the house.An early C20 wrought-iron gate and overthrow stands
isolated on the northern edge of this lawn.A further area of level lawn extends to
the south of the sunken garden to the Long Walk.The east terrace returns below the
north or entrance facade of the house.A concrete ramp,replacing earlier steps,ascends
from the gravelled carriage turn below the terrace.An area of grass extends to the
north of the carriage turn,while c.100m north of the house,a C19 avenue of limes leads
to the parish church.The tower of the church serves as an eye-catcher from the north
terrace.Further areas of lawn extend to the west of the carriage turn, dropping gently
to the River Allen.A further terrace extends below the south facade of the house.Steps
descend to a lower terrace,and then to an approximately square area of level grass.Early
C20 photographs show this area to have been laid out as a formal flower garden(CL,1904,1915),while
one version of an engraving published in 1750 shows a series of formal glacis or terraces
below the south facade of the house(private collection).To the south of the lawn,a
broad,level grass terrace,the Long Walk extends c400m from east to west.Lawns,planted
with specimen trees extend to the south of the Long Walk,and are bounded to the south-west
by the lake,and to the south by a sinuous canal which extends c.300m east from the
body of the lake.The western end of the canal is crossed by a stone bridge with balustraded
parapets.Although altered in the C20 (CL, 1904),this bridge is probably of mid C18
origin,and may be the stone bridge noted by Bishop Pococke in 1754 (Oswald,1959).At
the eastern end of the canal,an area of shrubbery and specimen trees contains the
mid C18 grotto (listed Grade II*),a free-standing rustic stone structure which contains
three compartments.The central compartment is decorated,with exotic shells,fossils
and minerals,and leads to a small eastern chamber with a tiled floor and fireplace.The
two outer compartments are decorated with flints.Although repaired in 1959 and re-roofed
in the late C20,the grotto is now(2002)overgrown with ivy and in a state of dereliction.The
building was constructed for the fourth Earl in 1751-3 at a reputed cost of £3,000(DRO:Ph
843) by 'Mr Castles of Marylebone' (Oswald,1959),who perhaps decorated a structure
by Joseph Lane (1717-1784) with the shells supplied by Alderman Beckford (Mowl,2003).To
the east of the grotto,an area of evergreen shrubbery and trees projects c.270m into
the park.Within this area a declivity contains a further grotto which is entered through
a rusticated stone arch.These features are not shown on an estate plan of 1788 (Mowl,2003),and
may have been added to the pleasure grounds in the late C18 or early C19.The southern
side of this plantation is separated from the park by a ha-ha,which extends c.270m
south-south-west into the park.The 1788 estate survey indicates that this ditch formed
the eastern boundary of an approximately triangular-shaped plantation or wilderness,the
southern tip of which corresponded to the tumulus which survives c.430m south-east
of the house. The tumulus appears to have been surmounted by the mid C18 'round pavilion'
dedicated to the memory of Shakespeare which was noted by Bishop Pococke in 1754 (Oswald,1959;
Mowl, 2003).The wilderness,which is shown on a survey of 1794 (DRO:Ph 430),was removed
in the early C19,and is not recorded on the Tithe map(1839).The artificial lake to
the south-west of the house extends c.540m from north to south-south-west,and has
an approximately circular island at its northern end.The island does not retain the
ruined castle shown in the 1750 engravings;the Chinese bridge which formerly provided
access to the island (engraving,1750),also does not survive.The lake is narrow and
sinuous,and was described by C18 visitors as a serpentine river;its present form corresponds
to that shown on the Tithe map(1839),and on the 1794 and 1788 estate surveys.The east
and west banks of the lake are planted with trees and evergreen shrubbery,while a
further area of C19 mixed woodland,the Pinetum,extends south-east of the lake.From
the stone bridge at the western end of the canal,a straight gravel walk leads c.500m
south-south-west to join the carriage drive encircling the eastern side of the park
at the south-west corner of the Pinetum.This walk corresponds to eastern boundary
of the mid C18 pleasure grounds as recorded on the 1788 estate survey(Mowl,2003).Mixed
woodland to the west of this walk,and to the south-east of the lake,corresponds to
a regular plantation shown on the 1788 survey.A walk continues round the southern
end of the lake,passing the outflow into River Allen which is treated as a cascade,and
returns along the western bank of the lake.Some 160m south-west of the house,the walk
passes the mid C18 castellated gateway (listed Grade II).Constructed in 1748 by a
mason called Marrett,perhaps to the design of Henry Flintcroft,whose gateway at Redlynch
Park,Somerset (qv) this structure recalls,the ‘Great Arch’ comprises a pair of circular
turrets with a banded rustication linked by a rusticated stone arch.Now (2002) heavily
overgrown with ivy,the Great Arch formerly framed a vista to a circular structure
standing against a small plantation on high ground c.430m,north-west (estate survey
1788;Tithe map,1839).The site of this structure corresponds approximately to the late
C20 dairy unit. The lake and island,the canal,grotto,east lakeside walk,cascade and
the Great Arch survived from the fourth Earl’s mid C18 rococo pleasure grounds,and
correspond to the features described by Bishop Pococke in 1754,and by Dr Evans,Archdeacon
of Worcester,who described the garden in August 1755:‘The Gardens are extremely elegant
with a good River meandering thro’ the midst of them:Temples not expensive but light
& easy:and a most beautiful Grotto of the finest shells,which is said to have cost
near £3,000’(DRO:Ph 843).The surviving features can be identified on the 1788 estate
survey.The rococo gardens were altered and simplified in the early C19 (Tithe map,1839),and
new areas,including the Pinetum,were formed in the mid and late C19 (OS,1886).
THE PARK The park lies to the east of the house,and today(2002)remains pasture with
scattered trees and clumps.The park is enclosed to the south and east by a belt of
mixed woodland,Drive Plantation,through which a carriage drive passes.This drive extends
north beyond Cranborne Lodge,and west beyond the River Allen,of mixed plantation which
extends c.10km outside the park.The drives and rides follow a ridge of high ground
above the head-waters of the River Allen,and afford wide views across the surrounding
landscape to a series of church towers and to various tumuli and other prehistoric
earthworks.The drive makes use of the Roman road,Ackling Dyke c.3km north-west of
the house(a scheduled monument).The circuit of carriage drives and rides appears to
have been developed in the early C19:it is not shown on the 1788 and 1794 estate surveys,but
is recorded in its present form on the OS Surveyor’s Drawing(1807-08).The park to
the east of the house is dominated by a double beech which extends on axis with the
east façade of the house from the boundary of the formal gardens to the B3078 road
which forms the eastern boundary of the site.The western half of the avenue has been
replanted in the late C20,while more mature trees survive in the eastern half.The
avenue is shown on the 1788 estate survey,and is said to have replaced an avenue of
walnuts planted by the first Earl in the mid C17 (CL,1915).By the late C18 the avenue,recorded
as a single line of trees on each side,had been thinned,and a clump of trees had been
formed in it c.400m east of the house.This arrangement is also shown on the Tithe
map (1839),but the avenue had been restored by the late C19 when a drive had been
constructed passing through it to the B3078 road at Avenue Lodge (OS,1886).The park
contains several tumuli and other earthwork features,while the clump c.290m north-east
of the house shelters a group of late C19 dog’s headstones.An area of level ground
to the east of the kitchen garden and c.400,north-east of the house has been laid
out in the mid or late C20 as a cricket pitch with timber pavilion.The park is of
uncertain origin.A deer park existed to the east of the B3078 road by the early C16
(Shirley, 1867). It is probable that the present park was formed by the first Earl
when he constructed the house in the mid C17,although whether it replaced the earlier
park is unclear.The park was enhanced by the fourth Earl in the mid and late C18 and
early C19.
KITCHEN GARDEN The kitchen garden is situated c.160m north-east of the house and immediately
east of the stables and riding house.Approximately rectangular on plan,the garden
is enclosed by brick walls 3m high.The interior of the walled enclosure is divided
into four unequal areas by further,similar brick walls.The garden is no longer in
cultivation(2002),but is laid to grass.Some standard fruit trees survive in the north-eastern
compartment,the north-east corner of which is marked by a two-storey octagonal pavilion
with a pyramidal roof,which may have served as a tool and dovecote.The 1788 estate
survey shows the kitchen garden in its present location,and with the same internal
division.The survey indicates that each compartment was divided into planting beds
by paths.A similar arrangement is recorded on the Tithe map(1839),and on the late
C19 OS(OS,1886).The garden was re-planted as a flower and fruit garden in 1909(Oswald,1959).
It is uncertain when the garden was constructed,but it is possible that it is contemporary
with the first Earl’s C17 riding house which adjoins it to the south-west.
OTHER LAND To the east of the B3078 road,c.1.5km east-south-east of the house,the
Round House or Philosopher's Tower is included in the registered site as an outlying
structure.The building is square on plan,and comprises a single storey raised on a
basement.Constructed in brick with a carved stone panel of the third Earl's arms,the
building has a domed tiled roof with a ball finial,and is lit by tall sash windows.A
pair of chimneys serve fireplaces.The building was constructed c.1700 for the third
Earl,who is said to have written many of his philosophical treatises here.It stands
in the C16 deer park,which was presumably then still emparked,and may have been intended
as a gazebo,or have replaced an earlier stand within the park.
Parkland and pleasure grounds developed between the late C17 and C19, retaining significant mid C18 landscape structures.
This garden or other land is registered under the Historic Buildings and Ancient Monuments Act 1953 within the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens by Historic England for its special historic interest.
St Giles House is included on the Register of Parks and Gardens of Special Historic
Interest at Grade II* for the following principal reasons:
EARLY AND REPRESENTATIVE EXAMPLE: it is a particularly important multi-phased designed
landscape, incorporating pleasure grounds and parkland first developed in the late
C17 and throughout the C18 and C19,for a very important country house of exceptional
interest.
HISTORIC ASSOCIATION: it has strong and long standing historic associations with one
of the most important and influential aristocratic families in England.
GROUP VALUE: it forms the essential setting to a Grade I listed mansion and has additional
strong group value with significant mid C18 landscape structures situated within it.
Books and journals
Mowl, T, Historic Gardens of Dorset, (2003), 68-73, 78, 80
Oswald, A, Country Houses of Dorset, (1959)
Pevsner, N, Newman, J, The Buildings of England: Dorset, (1972), 469-73
Shirley, EP, Some Account of English Deer Parks, (1867), 93
Other
Country Life, 16 (20 August 1094), pp270-72, 37, (13 March 1915), pp 336-42, 94, (10 September 1943), pp 464-67; (17 September 1943), pp 508-10; (21 September 1943), pp 552-54.,
Somerset and Dorset Notes and Queries 33 part 339 (1994), pp 295-8,
Susannah Fleming, The Garden and Landscape of St Giles House, Wimborne St Giles, Dorset, 2006,