Identification and description | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Name | STUDLEY ROYAL | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Location |
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Localisation | Latitude: 54.098646 Longitude: -1.5793441 National Grid Reference: SE2760767054, SE2782269495 Map: Download a full scale map (PDF) |
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Overview | Heritage Category: Park and Garden Grade: I List Entry Number: 1000410 Date first listed: 10-May-1984 |
A park of the late C17 probably with earlier origins, a water garden and pleasure
grounds of c 1718-30 laid out by owner John Aislabie which were extended to include
the ruins of Fountains Abbey by his son William Aislabie from 1768 onwards. The site
has been described as 'one of the most spectacular scenic compositions in England'
(Hussey 1967) and 'the finest formal water-garden in the country' (Jellicoe et al
1986).
NOTE This entry is a summary. Because of the complexity of this site, the standard
Register entry format would convey neither an adequate description nor a satisfactory
account of the development of the landscape. The user is advised to consult the references
given below for more detailed accounts. Many Listed Buildings exist within the site,
not all of which have been here referred to. Descriptions of these are to be found
in the List of Buildings of Special Architectural or Historic Interest produced by
the Department of Culture, Media and Sport.
HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT
Fountains Abbey was founded in 1132 and by the middle of the C13 it was one of the
richest religious houses in England. Following the Dissolution the buildings and some
of the land was sold to Richard Gresham who later sold them to Stephen Proctor. After
several changes of ownership the Abbey ruins and Fountains Hall were acquired by the
Messenger family who sold them to William Aislabie (c 1700-81), owner of the adjacent
estate of Studley Royal, in 1767.
George Aislabie acquired an interest in Studley Royal in 1663 when he married into
the Mallory family. Work on the grounds at Studley were in hand before the end of
1674, but George was killed in the following year. The estate was consolidated in
the years which followed and eventually devolved upon George's third son John (1670-1742)
in 1693. John Aislabie's initially successful political career brought him into contact
with William Benson, Clerk of the Office of Works and Benson's assistant Colen Campbell
as well as John Vanburgh and Nicholas Hawksmoor. He had started work on the water
gardens by 1718, which is the probable date of How Hill Tower (listed grade II*),
an eyecatcher on the top of How Hill which has stylistic affinities with Vanbrugh's
work at Castle Howard (qv). Work on the grounds stopped during the period 1721-3 when
he was embroiled in the South Sea Bubble scandal, but operations recommenced and by
1730 the structure of the core part of the garden had taken shape.
John's son William Aislabie inherited and began extending the pleasure grounds into
the eastern part of the Skell valley. Following the acquisition of the Fountains estate
he incorporated the Abbey ruins into an extension of his father's garden. Studley
became one of the premier sites to visit in the north and attracted a stream of visitors
throughout the C19 and into the C20. After William's death the estate passed through
the female line and eventually devolved upon the Vyner family who sold the site to
West Riding County Council in 1966. The site is in the ownership of the National Trust
(1998) which acquired it from North Yorkshire County Council in 1983. The south-east
tip of the site, including Mackershaw and Chinese Wood, is in private ownership, as
is Studley Royal House, and the eastern and northern approaches (1998).
SUMMARY DESCRIPTION
Studley Royal lies c 3km south-east of Ripon in a rural and agricultural area. The
c 300ha site is on land which falls from the north to the valley of the River Skell.
The river runs through a valley which describes a curving course from west to east
across the southern half of the site. The eastern boundary is largely walled with
sections which could be the repaired and renewed survivors of a programme of wall
building recorded in 1688. Part of the south-west side of the site is bounded by Abbey
Wall which is a prominent skyline feature from the Abbey ruins, and other boundaries
are largely fenced.
The principal entrance is from the west side of Ripon, south of Bishopton Bridge.
A track leads south-west through a finger of parkland to East Lodge (listed grade
II*). The design of this entrance has been attributed to the influence of Lord Burlington
or Colen Campbell but it may be identifiable with a structure referred to in 1685
and probably predates John Aislabie's landscaping works of 1718 onwards. The gates
lead to an avenue which runs south-west on rising land in alignment with St Mary's
church (see below), and an Obelisk (listed grade II) of 1815 (now obscured by the
church). The avenue is aligned with Ripon Minster (C13, listed grade I) c 3.5km to
the north-east and views of the Minster in the distance can be obtained from it. The
route is diverted from its line to skirt to the south of the church and exit via a
gate on the west side of the site.
On the north side of the site a drive leads from Galphay Road south to the B6265 where
there is a set of gates, piers and flanking walls (probably mid C18, listed grade
II). The drive continues south through the park and meets with the east drive at a
point known as the Cocked Hat.
An entrance from the south-east tip of the site on Whitcliffe Lane leads to a drive
which runs north and then turns to the west, following the line of the Skell. This
part of the Skell valley is called Seven Bridges Valley for the succession of narrow
rustic bridges over the river which winds through the valley. The bridges have fords
across the river beside them (mid-late C18, bridges and fords all listed grade II)
and they replaced wooden bridges in Chinese style built for William Aislabie c 1745.
The route continues to the north-east tip of The Lake (see below) where it crosses
the outflow via a bridge and runs north-west to join with other drives through the
site.
Mackershaw Lodges (probably mid(late C18, listed grade II) lie on the highest point
of the southern side of the site. A central arch is flanked by pedestrian gates and
neo-classical lodges all built from roughly dressed stone. They are reached from a
system of paths leading from Whitcliffe Lane in a position which was never a principal
point of access, and they may have been primarily designed as an eyecatcher.
The Aislabies' house, which lay in the northern part of the park beside the north
drive, was burnt down in 1946. The adjacent stable block (1728-32, listed grade II*)
by Colen Campbell, was converted to dwelling and is in use as a private residence
(1998).
Fountains Hall (listed grade I), which lies close to the south-west tip of the site
was substantially remodelled 1598-1611 for Stephen Proctor and has a small walled
garden on the south side. It was altered c 1930 and converted to an office and exhibition
centre in the late C20, in which use it remains (1998).
St Mary's church (1871-8, listed grade I) was designed by William Burges for Lady
Mary Vyner. The building is considered to be a triumph of High Victorian architecture
and one of Burges' finest works.
The site consists of three distinct but related areas: the northern parkland, the
pleasure gardens to the south-west, and Seven Bridges Valley to the south-east. How
Hill Tower (listed grade II*), c 1km to the south, is included as an outlying eyecatcher.
On the north side of the site the land falls to the south and open parkland is crossed
by the two axial routes. The park is largely open pasture with scattered trees with
a belt of planting sheltering the north-west side. The antiquarian John Warburton
visited in 1720 and described 'a most delightful situation and park, which for variety
of prospect in vistoes, avenues, fish ponds etc., is hardly to be exceeded or paralleled'
(quoted in guidebook) which suggests that landscaping works were relatively mature
and had probably been initiated in the last part of the C17.
The central and south-western part of the site is the location of the pleasure grounds
centring around the valley of the River Skell. The Lake is situated in low-lying land
in the central part of the site. It has an island created from C19 dredgings and on
the south side there is a dam with a central stepped cascade flanked by stone piers
with frosted rustication and pavilions (1727-9, listed grade II*). Gates on the west
side of the dam lead to a system of paths alongside The Canal (listed grade I), which
runs south-west from the dam. The Canal is flanked by smooth grassed banks framed
by the wooded valley sides. Some 100m south of the dam there is a semicircular lake
called Half Moon Pond on the west side of The Canal, bowed inwards on its east side.
The circular Moon Pond, c 220m south of the dam on the east side of The Canal, is
flanked by the triangular Crescent ponds (Moon and Crescent Ponds listed grade II*)
and the Temple of Piety (before 1738, listed grade I ) stands on its east bank. The
wooded valley sides rise steeply to the east and west and there are views from the
canal side to the Banqueting Hall (1728-32, possibly designed by Colen Campbell, listed
grade I) high on the western valley side, c 300m south-west of the dam, and the gothick
Octagon Tower (1735, listed grade II*) high on the east side c 100m south-east of
the dam. The Canal turns through c 20 degrees at a point c 370m south of the dam where
there is a cascade called Drum Fall, and it continues to a point c 500m south of the
dam to a cascade, at which point it is crossed by Rustic Bridge (listed grade II).
From this point the water sweeps in a smooth curve, called the Reservoir, around an
eminence called Tent Hill and paths lead around the water's edge to run south-westwards
as the ruins of Fountains Abbey come into view.
A system of paths leads through the woods and up the steep valley side on the east
side of The Canal. A route leads across the dam and ascends the valley side entering
a serpentine tunnel c 80m south-east of the dam which emerges close to the platform
on which the Octagon Tower stands. There are views from this point across the valley
north-westwards to the Banqueting Hall. Tree-cover has partially obscured other long-distance
views. The path, which is called High Ride, continues along the crest of the valley
to the Temple of Fame (listed grade II), an open rotunda which was built in c 1770
by William Aislabie. Some 200m south-east of this Anne Boleyn's Seat (late C18, rebuilt
C19, listed grade II) is a shelter from which there is a striking view of the ruins
of Fountains Abbey, seen for the first time from High Ride. The path loops down to
rejoin the valley-bottom path leading to the Abbey ruins.
The Abbey ruins were cleared and consolidated by William Aislabie in a campaign which
included the removal of the inner cloister wall, and the repair and re-erection of
masonry. He built a raised platform, called the Gazebo (demolished), at the east end
of the church which gave views of the ruins and out through the east window into the
valley. Paths lead through the ruins and divide, with a yew-lined route leading west
to Fountains Hall and another route leading east along the north side of the valley,
completing a circuit walk back to the dam on The Lake.
The Seven Bridges Valley, on the south-east side of the site, is open grassland with
scattered trees and clumps above the rocky valley sides to the north, and a band of
woodland called Mackershaw Wood on the south valley side. A folly called the Roman
Monument, also known as the Devil's Chimney (c 1740, listed grade II), tops a rocky
eminence c 500m east of the dam, and on the eastern edge of the site woodland on the
north side of the river called Chinese Wood was the site of a large Chinese garden,
of which little visible trace survives, laid out by William Aislabie in the 1740s
with a pagoda and a Chinese pavilion.
REFERENCES A Young, Six Months Tour through the North of England 2, (1771), pp 300-6
W Gilpin, Observations on Several Parts of England 2, (1808), pp 175-85 C Holme, Gardens
of England in Northern Counties (1911), pl 125 C Hussey, English Gardens and Landscapes
1700(1750 (1967), pp 132-9 N Pevsner, The Buildings of England: Yorkshire The West
Riding (1967), pp 502-4 J Harris, The Artist and the Country House (1979), pp 194-5
G and S Jellicoe et al, The Oxford Companion to Gardens (1986), pp 538-9 M Newman,
Archive Report (National Trust 1996) [An extensive and detailed study of the estate
and its owners] Studley Royal, guidebook, (National Trust 1997)
Maps [reproduced in National Trust 1997] Sketch map of gardens, 1738 T Jefferys, County
Map, 1771 Estate Map, 1831
OS 6" to 1 mile: 1st edition surveyed 1854 2nd edition published 1910
Description written: December 1998 Amended: March 1999 Register Inspector: CEH Edited:
October 1999
This garden or other land is registered under the Historic Buildings and Ancient Monuments Act 1953 within the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens by Historic England for its special historic interest.