Identification and description | |||||||||||||
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Name | Milton Abbey | ||||||||||||
Location |
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Localisation | Latitude: 50.831640 Longitude: -2.2955810 National Grid Reference: ST7928003609 Map: Download a full scale map (PDF) |
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Overview | Heritage Category: Park and Garden Grade: II* List Entry Number: 1000721 Date first listed: 19-Dec-1986 Date of most recent amendment: 06-Mar-2014 Location Description:Milton Abbas, North Dorset |
An abbey was founded here by King Athelstan after the Battle of Brunenburgh, in which
the king secured a victory over the Danes, circa 940. The abbot was granted rights
to hold a market, and a community, originally known as Middleton, grew up adjacent
to the monastery. By the time of the Dissolution, the abbot enjoyed not only market
rights, but also licence to hold a fair, and free warren within the manor of Milton
(CL, 1902). When the monastic house was dissolved in 1539, the manor was granted to
John Tregonwell, one of the Commissioners for the surrender of the monasteries, in
return for a payment of £1,000 (Oswald, 1959). Tregonwell, who was subsequently knighted,
made over the abbey church to the parishioners of Milton and converted the monastic
buildings into a house, in which he and his descendants lived for circa 150 years.
In the early C17, John Tregonwell III purchased Anderson Manor, Dorset (qv), to which
he retired in 1624, leaving Milton to his elder son. His grandson, John Tregonwell
V died without a male heir, and in 1696 his daughter married Sir Jacob Bancks, nephew
of the Swedish ambassador. On Bancks' death in 1724, Milton was inherited by his second
son, also Jacob, who died intestate in 1737, shortly after beginning to rebuild the
western range of the C16 mansion (Oswald, 1959). After some fifteen years of litigation
between rival Bancks and Tregonwell claimants, the estate was sold in 1752 to Joseph
Damer of Winterborne Came, Dorset, who was married to the daughter of the first Duke
of Dorset. Damer, who was created Lord Milton in 1753 and Earl of Dorchester in 1792,
commissioned John Vardy to complete the work begun by Jacob Bancks. In 1763, Lord
Milton called in Lancelot Brown (1716-1783) to form a landscape park around the mansion,
the medieval abbots' park having been situated circa 1km east of the abbey. Work continued
until October 1770, by which time Brown had received £2,052 8s 0d from Lord Milton
(Stroud, 1975). Between 1770 and circa 1774, Milton concentrated on rebuilding the
remainder of the C16 house, employing as his architect first Sir William Chambers
(1726-96), and subsequently, after disagreements, James Wyatt (1746-1813). In 1774,
Brown was again consulted, preparing plans for the construction of a new model village,
Milton Abbas, to replace the remnants of the mediaeval village adjacent to the mansion
which stood in the way of the construction of a proposed lake (Stroud, 1975). Brown's
work for Lord Milton continued until 1782, by which time the lawns and plantations
north and west of the house had been formed, as well as the new village, lake and
further plantations in the valley to the south.
The first Earl of Dorchester died in 1798, and was succeeded by his second son, who
in turn died unmarried in 1808, at which point the Earldom became extinct. The Damers'
estates at Milton and Came then passed to the second Earl's sister, Lady Caroline
Damer, who died in 1829 and was succeeded by her cousin, Capt Henry Dawson RN, younger
son of the second Earl of Portarlington. In 1852 the fourth Earl of Portarlington
sold the Milton estate to Charles Joachim, Baron Hambro of the Kingdom of Denmark.
Baron Hambro made few changes to the house, but spent considerable sums restoring
the abbey church, employing Sir Gilbert Scott as his architect. Baron Hambro was succeeded
by his third son, Sir Everard Hambro, who in 1932 was forced by economic circumstances
to sell the estate, which was then broken up. The house and part of the grounds were
subsequently acquired by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, and the house was used
as a centre for faith healing until circa 1950. By 1953, when the house was threatened
with demolition, a trust was formed to open a boys' public school at Milton. In the
early C21 the site is in divided ownership, with the mansion, abbey church and the
immediate grounds remaining in institutional use.
LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING Milton Abbey is situated circa 4.5km
north of Milborne St Andrew and the A354 road which leads north-east from Puddletown
to Blandford Forum. The circa 535ha site comprises some 7ha of gardens and pleasure
grounds, and circa 528ha of parkland, ornamental plantations and lakes. The site is
bounded to the south and south-east by a minor road which runs east from Hilton to
Milton Abbas, while to the north-east and north the boundary is formed by a minor
road which leads north from Milton Abbas to Bulbarrow Hill, from which the site is
separated by a stone park wall and by a park pale ditch. To the west, south-west and
east the site adjoins agricultural land from which it is separated by a variety of
hedges, banks and fences. The site is undulating, comprising a dry downland valley
extending north from the abbey to a high point adjacent to the northern boundary of
the park, with a further valley extending westwards from the abbey towards the village
of Hilton, the church tower of which serves as an eye-catcher in the landscape (outside
the area here registered). A further valley drops away to the south of the abbey,
where a stream is dammed to form an artificial lake. Southerly views through this
valley are now (early C21) partly obscured by vegetation, while extensive views to
the south and west survive from the higher ground north of the abbey. The late C18
village of Milton Abbas, laid out to a design of Lancelot Brown (1774) and with a
church designed by James Wyatt (1786) as part of Lord Milton's extensive improvements
is not included in the registered site, but forms part of its setting. Similarly,
the minor road leading south from Lower Lodge to Milborne St Andrew, circa 1km of
which is planted with an avenue, and which was laid out by Lord Milton in the late
C18 as an approach to the abbey, forms part of the setting of the site.
ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES The early C21 entrance to Milton Abbey is from the minor
road which leads north and north-west from Milton Abbas to Hilton, at a point circa
200m north-east of the house. The entrance is marked by a pair of late C18 ashlar
piers decorated with carved swags of flowers which support a pair of simple iron gates
(all listed Grade II). Beyond the entrance, a tarmac drive leads south-west and south,
adjoined to the west by lawns and C20 playing fields, and to the east by late-C20
school houses, to reach a carriage turn below the north façade of the abbey. From
the carriage turn, a drive leads east to the stable court north-east of the house,
the C18 and C19 buildings of which have been converted and extended in the C20 for
school use.
Further drives lead north-east and south-east to join the minor road leading from
Milton Abbas to Hilton. The present north drive replaces an earlier northern approach
which followed a course circa 20m further west, joining the carriage turn on axis
with the gatehouse leading to the central courtyard of the Abbey (OS, 1900). This
earlier drive joined the minor road from Milton Abbas to Hilton at a point opposite
a further drive, King Edward's Drive, which survives as a track (2004) leading circa
1km north-east through Combe Plantation top join the minor road forming the north-eastern
boundary of the site. This drive passes the late C18 Stone Lodges (listed Grade II*),
a pair of classical, two-storey stone lodges flanking square ashlar piers and wrought
iron gates attributed to Sir William Chambers (listed building description) circa
800m north-east of the house, and emerges on to the minor road at High Lodge, a picturesque
brick and flint Gothic cottage dating from 1909. King Edward's Drive is shown on Woodward's
plan of Milton Abbey (1769), and probably formed part of Lancelot Brown's initial
phase of improvements for Lord Milton.
The principal C18 approach to the Abbey was from the south. With the exception of
the northern section adjacent to the Abbey, this drive survives as a track (2004)
which enters the site at Lower Lodge, circa 320m south-west of Milton Abbas. Lower
Lodge (listed Grade II) comprises a late-C18 single-storey stone cottage built in
classical style, which adjoins a pair of wrought-iron gates supported by rusticated
stone piers ornamented with carved swags. Beyond the entrance, the drive extends circa
400m north-west through the park, to the east of Lower Lodge Plantation and to the
west of the lake. Sweeping north and north-west the drive passes to the northeast
of the kitchen garden, and continues northwards through a pair of late-C18 stone piers
to pass over a stream on a late C18 stone bridge circa 270m south-west of the Abbey.
The bridge, probably designed by Chambers, has a parapet formed from pierced quatrefoil
mouldings, matching late C18 ornamental details on the house and abbey church. Beyond
the bridge the drive now extends c 430m north to join the minor road leading to Hilton,
but formerly swept north-east and south to join the north drive c 130m north of the
Abbey. This arrangement, shown on the early C20 OS (1900), replaced an C18 drive shown
on a late-C18 estate plan (DRO: Ph 67) which turned more sharply east to approach
the carriage court north of the house from the north-west. The south drive is not
shown on Woodward's estate plan (1769), at which time the village of Abbey Milton
still occupied the ground to the south and below the Abbey church. The drive was formed
as part of Brown's second phase of work for Lord Milton in the late C18, following
the clearance of the village circa 1774, and was associated with the formation of
the lake and southern park. The northern section of the C18 south drive was removed
in the mid-C20 during the formation of playing fields north of the Abbey.
PRINCIPAL BUILDING Milton Abbey (all listed Grade I; all Scheduled Ancient Monument)
stands on an artificially-levelled terrace towards the centre of the site. The house
is constructed around a central courtyard, with a further service court to the east.
Constructed in ashlar under slate and lead roofs, the building comprises two and three
storeys. The entrance or north façade has a central porch tower, and is terminated
to east and west by further projecting towers. The west façade, overlooking the park,
has corner towers and a projecting central block comprising seven bays rising to three
storeys. The north and west façades are ornamented with early Gothic revival details
including ogee-headed and quatrefoil-shaped windows, pierced balustrades and pinnacles.
The south range of the house comprises the late-C15 abbot's hall and kitchen, and
has a north façade, facing the courtyard, constructed in ashlar, and a southern façade,
facing the pleasure grounds, of banded stone and flint. These mediaeval monastic structures
were adapted for domestic use by John Tregonwell after he acquired the property in
1539, while the west range was partly rebuilt to the design of John Vardy for Jacob
Bancks in the late 1730s. This work was continued by Lord Milton, who, according to
Bishop Pococke, who visited in 1754, had the house cased 'all round in a beautiful
modern manner' (Oswald, 1959). In 1770, Lord Milton commissioned Sir William Chambers
to rebuild parts of the north, east and west ranges in a Gothic style harmonising
with the mediaeval abbey church to the south. Chambers was replaced in 1775 by James
Wyatt, who completed the rebuilding and decoration of the house (Oswald, 1959). The
abbey church of SS Mary, Sansom and Branwalader (listed Grade I; Scheduled Ancient
Monument) stands circa 40m south of the house, and comprises the C14 choir, north
and south choir aisles, transepts and central crossing tower of the mediaeval Benedictine
abbey church. The present structure was begun in the early C14 to replace a Norman
church which was destroyed by fire in 1309; it is possible that the nave was never
rebuilt (Oswald, 1959). After the Reformation the church remained in parochial use,
although in 1786 a new church was built in Milton Abbas. The abbey church was restored
in 1789 by James Wyatt, who probably introduced the pierced quatrefoil balustrades
to match those on the house. A further restoration was undertaken in 1865 by Sir Gilbert
Scott.
GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS The informal pleasure grounds are situated principally
to the north, south and west of the house. The carriage turn below the north façade
of the house returns below the west façade, forming a gravelled terrace overlooking
west-facing sloping lawns. To the north, the terrace is terminated by a large, C18
stone urn (listed Grade II), ornamented with swags and putti. The lawns to the north
and west of the house, which formed part of Brown's first phase of work at Milton
from 1763, and which are shown on Woodward's estate plan (1769), have been partly
re-graded and terraced to form school playing fields in the C20. A C19 ha-ha circa
150m west of the house separating the lawns from the park (OS, 1900), only survives
to the south-west of the abbey church. To the south of the church, the ground drops
away towards the lake, views of which are now (2004) obscured by trees and scrub.
Sloping lawns immediately south of the church are planted with a group of mature cedars,
ilex oaks and evergreen shrubs, while a late-C20 all-weather games pitch has been
constructed circa 150m south of the church. The sloping ground to the south of the
church is shown on both Woodward's 1769 estate plan, and the undated late-C18 estate
plan (DRO: Ph 67) as an enclosed burial ground, which was adjoined to the east by
Market Street and domestic properties in the village of Abbey Milton. The burial ground
was incorporated in to the pleasure grounds by Brown when the remnants of the village
were cleared by Lord Milton circa 1774. To the east of the abbey church a level lawn
extends circa 100m to a late-C20 beech hedge and drive which leads south from the
stable yard to Green Walk (listed Grade II; Scheduled Ancient Monument), an C18 thatched
cottage which survives from the former village of Abbey Milton circa 130m south-east
of the house, and the late-C20 Headmaster's House circa 160m south-south-east of the
house. To the north, the lawn is enclosed by the service range, terminated to the
east by an early-C20 semi-circular arbour supported by Ionic columns (roofless, 2004),
to the east of which extends a slightly-raised, stone-edged grass terrace backed by
stone walls screening the stable yard. The remains of the mediaeval market cross (listed
Grade II; Scheduled Monument) comprising an octagonal stone base stand towards the
south-east corner of the lawn circa 100m south-east of the house. Beyond the late-C20
beech hedge and drive to the east of the lawn, an area of level ground is laid out
with a box-edged geometrical parterre planted with mature specimen Chusan palms. To
the east of the parterre the steep, west-facing slope ascends to a terraced walk which
extends circa 100m to reach a later-C18 brick bridge (listed Grade II) which crosses
the minor road leading from Milton Abbas to Hilton. The terrace was planted in the
early C20 as a rose walk with arches and swags (CL, 1915). The bridge is also approached
from the level of the lawn by a monumental flight of grass steps, the foot of which
is flanked by mature clipped yews, formerly cut in to topiary shapes (CL, 1915). To
the east of the bridge a further flight of grass steps ascends to St Catherine's Chapel
(listed Grade I; Scheduled Ancient Monument) circa 240m east of the house, a late-C12
ecclesiastical structure originally associated with the mediaeval abbey. The east
lawn occupies the site of a large walled garden and village premises which are shown
on the late-C18 estate plan (DRO: Ph 67). This area was opened up and laid out as
lawns by Brown in the late C18, while the formal gardens comprising the surviving
parterre, rose terrace and grass steps, together with geometrical flower beds which
do not survive (CL, 1915) were laid out in the mid- or late C19 (OS, 1887).
THE PARK The park extends to the north, west and south of the Abbey, and is today
in mixed cultivation with arable land and school playing fields to the north and west,
and pasture to the south. A dry valley, Delcombe Bottom, extends circa 3km north-northwest
of the Abbey to high ground east of Bul Barrow. The valley sides are planted with
mixed woodland which serves to frame extensive views from the Abbey. Some 1.4km north-north-west
of the house, to the north of Horse Park Plantation, a structure now (2004) known
as Keeper's Cottage (not inspected 2004), was formerly known as the Menagerie (OS,
1887), while circa 2km north of the house Delcombe Farm (now, 2004, known as Delcombe
Manor, listed Grade II*) was rebuilt circa 1750 using mediaeval material from Milton
Abbey to serve as an eye-catcher (Pevsner, 1972). Woodward's estate plan (1769) identifies
the open floor of the valley as 'The Great Lawn', and also shows the enclosing wooded
belts. The creation of the park north of the Abbey formed part of Brown's first phase
of activity at Milton from 1763, when a series of agricultural enclosures shown on
Philip Byles' mid-C17 plan of Abbey Milton were removed. To the west of the house
a further valley extends towards Hilton. The vista from the house and lawns is framed
to north and south by the wooded slopes of Thomas's Hill Plantation and Monmouth's
or Melmoth's Hill. This arrangement reflects that shown on Woodward's estate plan
(1769) and form part of Brown's first phase of improvements for Lord Milton. To the
south of Melmoth's Hill, a contiguous belt of mixed woodland, Lower Lodge Plantation
and Ruins Plantation, extends from southeast, adjacent to Lower Lodge, to north-west
enclosing the south and south-western sides of the park. A narrow valley, St Thomas'
Vale (Woodward, 1769), extends westwards into Ruins Plantation circa 480m south-west
of the house. At the eastern end of this valley, a folly (listed Grade II; Scheduled
Monument) representing the ruins of a chancel and transept of a gothic church, serves
as an eye-catcher. The folly appears to incorporate fragments of mediaeval stonework,
presumably removed from the abbey church, perhaps during its restoration by James
Wyatt in 1789. The structure is not shown on Woodward's estate plan of 1769, but was
present by the late C19 (OS, 1887), when a summerhouse also stood on Melmoth's Hill
(unlocated, 2004).
The park to the south of the Abbey comprises a valley enclosed by Lower Lodge Plantation
to the south-west, and by the wooded slopes of St Catherine's Hill to the north. A
stream flows from north to south through the valley, and is dammed on the southern
boundary of the park to form an informal lake. A marshy area to the north of the lake
indicates the extent of the ornamental water created by Brown for Lord Milton circa
1774 on the site of the former village; it appears that the lake never achieved its
intended extent (Stroud, 1975). A footpath leading south from the boundary of the
pleasure grounds through the park and along the eastern side of the lake leads to
the late-C18 model village of Milton Abbas, emerging adjacent to Lake Lodge (listed
Grade II), an early- or mid-C19 picturesque thatched cottage ornée. The village (outside
the area here registered) occupies a valley which ascends eastwards from the lake.
The wooded slopes above the thatched cottages form part of the setting of the park.
The C18 park created by Brown and Lord Milton took in former agricultural land, together
with the site of the mediaeval village south of the abbey. Taylor's Map of Dorset
(1769) shows an avenue extending north of the house through the lower end of Brown's
Great Lawn, and a geometrical arrangement of trees recorded by Woodward on his estate
survey (1769) may reflect this feature. John Speed does not indicate a park at Milton
on his county map (1610), but Philip Byles' plan (1652-8) notes Milton Park, an area
of woodland circa 0.5km east of the late-C18 village. This woodland (outside the area
here registered) survives in the early C21, and conforms to the mediaeval abbots'
hunting park (Oswald, 1959). The wood is delineated on Woodward's plan (1769), where
it is shown, as today, as a detached area without any obviously ornamental treatment.
In the late C18 or early C19 an approximately triangular area to the south-east of
King Edward's Drive and immediately south of Stone Lodges was adapted as a park for
a herd of 300 fallow deer. It was disparked circa 1860 (Shirley, 1867).
KITCHEN GARDEN The kitchen garden is situated circa 0.5km south-south-west of the
Abbey, on level ground to the north of Lower Lodge Plantation. Approximately rectangular-shaped
on plan, the garden is enclosed by brick and stone walls circa 3m high, and is screened
from the house and pleasure grounds by a belt of trees and evergreen shrubbery. The
bothies to the north-east of the garden have been converted and extended in the mid-C20
to form a dwelling; the interior of the garden was not inspected (2004). The kitchen
garden appears to correspond to the enclosure marked as 'Lord Milton's Kitchen Garden'
on the undated late-C18 estate survey (DRO: Ph 67), while the open ground to the south-west
of the garden corresponds to 'Lord Milton's Orchard and Flower Garden' (DRO: Ph 67).
These features are not shown on Woodward's 1769 estate survey, and it is likely that
the kitchen garden was formed by Brown as part of his second phase of work for Lord
Milton after 1773. The early-C20 OS (OS, 1900) shows a cruciform arrangement of walks
within the garden, with an extensive group of glasshouses to the north-east and a
sundial to the north-west. It is not known to what extent these features survive today
(2004).
An extensive landscape park laid out in the second half of the C18 by Lancelot Brown.
This garden or other land is registered under the Historic Buildings and Ancient Monuments Act 1953 within the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens by Historic England for its special historic interest.
The extensive C18 landscape at Milton Abbey, designed by Lancelot Brown, is included
on the Register of Parks and Gardens at Grade II*, for the following principal reasons:
* Relative date: the landscape was laid out in circa 1763-82, during the great phase
of English landscape design, and has been little altered since; * Historic association:
it was designed by Lancelot 'Capability' Brown, the leading exponent of the more informal,
naturalistic style of garden design which became hugely popular and highly influential
in the second half of the C18; * Historic interest: the park was laid out for Lord
Milton to surround Milton Abbey, the late-C15, C16 and C18 house at the heart of the
landscape, with which it is still associated; * Group value: with Milton Abbey (listed
Grade I and a scheduled monument), the numerous listed buildings within the registered
area associated with the estate, and with the listed buildings within the model village
of Milton Abbas, which was designed by Brown for Lord Milton to replace the village
of Abbey Milton, demolished to make way for the parkland.
Books and journals
Oswald, A, Country Houses of Dorset, (1959), 108-13
Pevsner, N, Newman, J, The Buildings of England: Dorset, (1972), 286-94
Shirley, EP, Some Account of English Deer Parks, (1867), 94
Stroud, D, Capability Brown, (1975), 118-20
'Country Life' in Country Life, , Vol. 139, (21 July 1966), 152-6
'Country Life' in Country Life, 11, , Vol. 11, (15 February 1902), 208-13
'Country Life' in Country Life, , Vol. 139, (28 July 1966), 208-12
'Country Life' in Country Life, , Vol. 37, (29 May 1915), 734-41
'Country Life' in Country Life, , Vol. 139, (30 June 1966 ), 1718-21
'Country Life' in Country Life, , Vol. 38, (5 June 1915), 770-6
Other
Dorset Record Office (uncatalogued) : Philip Byles - A Brief Survey of the Manor of Milton Abbey (1652-58),
Dorset Record Office: D/ALM:26 - Early C19 engraved views of Milton Abbey,
Dorset Record Office: D919/5 - N Woodward: Survey of Milton Abbey, 1769,
Dorset Record Office: Ph 67 - Plan of Milton Abbey, the site of the mediaeval village and intended site of the lake, circa 1780,
Title: Map of Dorset Source Date: 1769 Author: Publisher: Surveyor:
Title: Map of Dorsetshyre Source Date: 1610 Author: Publisher: Surveyor: