Identification and description | |||||
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Name | PORTER VALLEY PARKS | ||||
Location |
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Localisation | Latitude: 53.361388 Longitude: -1.5409855 National Grid Reference: SK3064585044 Map: Download a full scale map (PDF) |
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Overview | Heritage Category: Park and Garden Grade: II List Entry Number: 1001502 Date first listed: 30-Mar-2001 |
Porter Valley Parks is a sequence of municipal parks and green spaces, created in
phases between 1885 and 1938, along the valley of the Porter Brook, incorporating
Endcliffe Wood, laid out for public use by William Goldring, Bingham Park, Whiteley
Woods, Forge Dam, and Porter Clough.
HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT
In the C18, cutlery manufacture in Sheffield was centred around steep fast-flowing
streams coming off the moors west of the town. The Porter Brook was a typical example,
dammed to provide power to a series of small grinding mills. As industry relocated
to the east of the town, the water-powered workshops were abandoned. Towards the end
of the C19 attention focused on using the Porter valley to serve the needs of the
rapidly expanding western suburbs. Accounts describe a well-established walk following
the Porter valley linking from 'the immediate vicinity of the town ... [at] Endcliffe
Wood' to the upper reaches of the Porter and 'one of the most perfect cascades that
a lover of nature could wish to see', in the 'small glen' at Porter Clough (Pawson
& Brailsford 1862).
In 1885 the Corporation purchased 20 acres (c 8ha) of land at Endcliffe Wood from
the trustees of Mr Robert Younge of Greystones, for £5232 (Pawson & Brailsford 1889).
The intention was not only to provide public walks and pleasure grounds but also to
improve sanitation. Sewage from the newly built housing north of the Porter Brook
was flowing into the river from small tributary streams causing a serious health risk;
acquiring the land enabled a sewer to be laid across the Wood.
In March 1886, William Goldring (1854-1919) was commissioned to adapt Endcliffe Wood
for public use. A contemporary account (Pawson & Brailsford 1889) describes the natural
beauty of the woods, improved with gravelled paths, flower beds, and ornamental shrubberies.
Rustic bridges and stepping stones crossed the stream which was stocked with trout.
Seating, a refreshment room, and a lodge were also provided. The millpond, or dam
as it is referred to locally, for Endcliffe Wheel mill at the east end of the Wood
was adapted for bathing; the dam for Holmes Wheel mill, in the middle, for skating;
and the dam for Nether Spur-Gear Wheel mill, at the west end, for waterfowl. Walks
were created alongside the dams, and their outfalls modified into waterfalls and cascades.
A new road, Rustlings Road, was established along the southern boundary of the park,
creating a new link between the south-west suburbs of the town and Ranmoor (ibid).
In 1887 the Queen Victoria Jubilee Committee purchased an additional 9 acres (c 3.6ha)
of level land to the south-east for £5045. In 1927 Lieut Col H K Stephenson DSO, JP
of Banner Cross Hall gave 5.5 acres (c 2.2ha) of land to the Lord Mayor for public
use, completing the area of Endcliffe Park that exists today.
Improvements continued as surrounding housing developments burgeoned and the town's
new tram system provided better access. South-west of Endcliffe Park, other parks
and green spaces, which also incorporated elements of the earlier industrial landscape,
were developing along the Porter valley. These were formed around and linked by a
walk closely following the valley floor. Bingham Park was acquired gradually between
1911, when Sir John E Bingham presented 11 acres (c 4.5ha) to the Corporation, and
1927, when an early water-powered scythe works and an associated dam were incorporated.
Whiteley Woods, incorporating an existing dam and its goit, was acquired in stages
in 1897/98, 1913, and 1932, and presented to the City by T Walter Hall, the Town Trustees,
and the J G Graves Charitable Trust respectively. Thomas Boulsover (1704-88), the
inventor of Sheffield Plate, lived at Whiteley Wood Hall, situated south of Whiteley
Woods. The grounds of the Hall were closely linked physically and visually to the
Porter valley. Boulsover established a forge on the Porter in Whiteley Woods to forge
and roll steel to make saws and fenders (Hey 1998).
The commitment by the Corporation to develop recreational space along the Porter valley
was recognised in 1924 in the Civic Survey carried out by Patrick Abercrombie. By
that date a sequence of linked parks was well established along the valley, and this
he described as:
The Porter Brook Parkway, consisting as it does of a string of contiguous open spaces,
is the finest example to be found in this country of a radial park strip, an elongated
open space, leading from a built-up part of the city direct into the country, the
land occupied being a river valley and so for the greater part unsuitable for building.
(Abercrombie 1924)
In September 1938 the J G Graves Charitable Trust acquired the 49 acre (19.8ha) Old
Mayhouse Farm and Forge Dam, creating the public open space known as Forge Dam. In
the same year, the acquisition of Porter Clough by the J G Graves Charitable Trust
completed the walk linking from close to the city centre, up the valley of the Porter,
to the edge of what was to become the Peak National Park.
The walk through Endcliffe Park, Bingham Park, Whiteley Woods, Forge Dam, and Porter
Clough became an important part of the Sheffield Round Walk, which was completed soon
after the Second World War, a route now (2002) linking publicly accessible open spaces
within the city boundaries. The Round Walk celebrates the contribution made by public
benefactors such as the J G Graves Charitable Trust to the provision and preservation
of such places in the city.
The Porter Valley Parks remain (2002) in public use in the ownership of Sheffield
City Council.
DESCRIPTION
LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING The Porter Valley Parks lie on the south-west
side of Sheffield, with the entrance to Endcliffe Park situated 2.75km, and the western
extremity of Porter Clough situated 7.25km, from Sheffield Town Hall.
Endcliffe Park occupies an area of c 15.5ha with a narrow neck extending west along
the bottom of the valley. The south-east boundary is marked by land belonging to Hallamshire
Squash and Tennis Club, while to the south it is bounded by Rustlings Road. The north-west
boundary is defined by Oakbrook Road and Riverdale Road, where a substantial retaining
wall forms part of the park boundary. The north boundary is formed by the grounds
of Sheffield University Halls of Residence, the grounds of the private residence The
Glen, and back gardens of housing near Hunter's Bar. The park is bisected from west
to east by the Porter Brook. To the north the largely wooded slopes form a south-facing
bank. The slopes are steep in parts, particularly adjacent to Riverdale Road on the
north-west boundary. There is a gradual fall in landform from west to east across
the park, following the course of the river. A large open space occupies an area south
of the river, rising gently towards the south boundary with Rustlings Road. Fine views
extend across the park to housing on rising ground beyond to the south-east, and there
are good views to the north and north-north-east towards Broomhill and Sheffield University.
Bingham Park occupies an area of c 24.5ha to the south of the west end of Endcliffe
Park. The long north and north-west boundaries are defined by allotments and housing
along Westwood Road, Oakbrook Road, and Rustlings Road. Further east the boundaries
are defined by allotments and the back gardens of housing along Rustlings Road. The
long south-east boundary is defined entirely by the residential areas along Stainton
Road, and the back gardens of Bingham Park Crescent, Bingham Park Road, Cliff Farm
Drive, and Greystones Road, and by the north side of Greystones Road. The west boundary
is defined by the steep, sharp bends of Highcliffe Road. The Porter Brook runs close
to the north-west boundary of the park, the valley side rising steeply to the south-east
providing occasional level terraced areas, from which excellent views are afforded
to the west, north-west, north-east, and east towards the city centre.
Whiteley Woods is a narrow linear park which occupies an area of c 11.5ha. The long
boundary to the north is formed by adjacent fields, the grounds of the former Fulwood
Hospital Annexe, the grounds of the former Whiteley Wood Clinic, and the residential
area along Woofinden Avenue. The short eastern boundary is defined by the steep, sharp
bends of Highcliffe Road. The long south boundary is formed by derelict allotments,
Whiteley Wood Road, and adjacent fields. The short west boundary is defined by Ivy
Cottage Lane. The Porter Brook runs through the centre of the park with narrow, fairly
steep, well-wooded valley sides to the north and south, allowing limited views within
the park, but affording views outwards from all the boundaries.
Forge Dam is a small, roughly rectangular green space occupying an area of c 9.5ha.
The irregular north boundary is defined by Quiet Lane, adjacent fields, Whiteley Lane,
and the back gardens of housing on Whiteley Lane. The east boundary is formed by Ivy
Cottage Lane and the southern boundary is defined by adjacent fields. The short western
boundary is formed by Wood Cliffe. The Porter Brook runs close to the south boundary,
the short, steep and wooded valley side to the south offering limited views, while
the fairly steeply rising northern valley side affords good views in parts to the
south and south-west.
The Porter Clough section of the Porter Valley Parks is situated at the south-west
extremity of the parks and green space sequence, linking directly to the edge of the
Peak District. The narrow linear green space occupies an area of c 7.2ha, bounded
on the long north-west boundary by adjacent fields and on the long south-east boundary
by Clough Lane and adjacent fields. The short east boundary is defined by Wood Cliffe
and the short south boundary is defined by Fulwood Lane. The Porter Brook runs close
to the south-east boundary, the steep, well-wooded valley sides offering limited views
within the green space but affording good views from the boundaries, particularly
to the south-east towards the city centre.
ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES The main entrance to Endcliffe Park is located at the eastern
end, at Hunter's Bar. At the entrance, the arrangement of low stone boundary walls,
railings and gates, combined with raised planting beds, affords good views directly
into the park. Major alterations were carried out here in 1956 as a result of road
improvements, involving the loss of c 1400m2 of the park. Some 50m south-west of the
entrance is a late C19 pavilion and lodge (listed grade II), built as the refreshment
pavilion and made into a park keeper's house in 1936. On the north side of the entrance,
the river falls over a weir into a large culvert, to emerge to the east in the grounds
of the Woofinden Almshouses (outside the area here registered). A monument to Queen
Victoria (listed grade II) is located 50m west-north-west of the main entrance; the
bronze figure on stone base was relocated from the town hall in 1930. A vehicular
entrance off Rustlings Road, along the western boundary with the Hallamshire Squash
and Tennis Club, leads to a small area of roadside parking, 150m west-south-west of
the Queen Victoria monument. There are a number of small pedestrian entrances via
the southern boundary off Rustlings Road. A further entrance stands at the western
end of the park, c 1km from the main entrance, close to the junction of Rustlings
Road and Oakbrook Road. This entrance is formed from a wide gap in the railings (mid
C20) with ornamental shrub and tree planting to either side. This, like the Hunter's
Bar entrance, provides vehicular and pedestrian access. There is a direct link from
this entrance, south-west across Rustlings Road, to the entrance to Whiteley Woods
and Bingham Park. Further pedestrian entrances give access on the north side of the
park, off Riverdale Road.
The OS 1st edition map of 1894 shows the former main entrance to Endcliffe Park near
Hunter's Bar leading off Brocco Bank, and the main walk situated to the north of the
river, leading directly towards the boating pond. There was an arrangement of two
weirs (now gone) close to the entrance, one of which could be viewed directly from
the main walk.
The main entrance to Bingham Park is situated close to the junction of Rustlings Road
and Oakbrook Road, with a park lodge located immediately south-east of the entrance.
The main walk proceeds 750m to the south-west to a combined occasional vehicular and
pedestrian entrance situated immediately south of the bridge (listed grade II) on
Highcliffe Road and a pedestrian entrance, reached by a flight of stone steps, immediately
north of the bridge. There are a number of informal access points into the park from
the allotments to the west and open access along many parts of the boundaries, particularly
off Greystones Road to the south-east.
The eastern entrance to Whiteley Woods is situated on Highcliffe Road. Some 240m west-south-west
of this entrance Whiteley Wood Road bisects the park, running from north-east to south-west
creating two informal entrances on either side. There is a vehicular access point
off Whiteley Wood Road, adjacent to which is a car park, which links to Wire Mill
Dam. Immediately north of the car park are three C18 cottages, Ivy Cottages (listed
grade II). There are a number of informal access points into the park including those
on Whiteley Wood Road, a link off Woofinden Avenue, and one from the south-west corner
of the park off Ivy Cottage Lane. The western entrance to Whiteley Woods is situated
on Ivy Cottage Lane.
The main entrance to Forge Dam, for both occasional vehicular and pedestrian access,
is situated on Ivy Cottage Lane, with a further pedestrian entrance 60m north and
an additional entrance 20m to the south of the main entrance. Near the main entrance,
there is informal parking along Ivy Cottage Lane. The western entrance to Forge Dam
is situated on Wood Cliffe, 580m west-south-west of the main entrance on Ivy Cottage
Lane. There are two pedestrian entrances on the northern boundary off Whiteley Lane.
The Porter Clough green space is traversed in two places by roads, Mark Lane, 350m
west of Wood Cliffe, and Clough Lane, 500m south-west of Mark Lane. The entrance at
the eastern end is from Wood Cliffe, with entrances to each section off the respective
roads, Mark Lane and Clough Lane. At the west end of Porter Clough, the entrance and
car park on Fulwood Lane mark the western extremity of the Porter Valley Parks.
GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS The Porter Valley Parks are a sequence of municipal parks
and green spaces created around the valley of the Porter Brook, linked by a walk that
connects from the main entrance at Endcliffe Park, close to the city centre, and extending
in a south-westerly direction to the upper reaches of the Porter and the moors on
the edge of the Peak National Park at Porter Clough. There is a gradual transition
in style from Endcliffe Park, a formal Victorian municipal park, towards the less
formal character of Porter Clough, modified for public use and incorporating approaches
more typical of the 1930s. Features of industrial archaeological interest, natural
history, ecological interest, and archaeological interest, found throughout the valley
in the various parks and green spaces, are connected by the walk which provides a
coherent element around which the ornamental designed landscape has been shaped. The
following description of the Porter Valley Parks proceeds from Endcliffe Park and
leads south-west, following the Porter Brook upstream through Bingham Park, Whiteley
Woods, and Forge Dam to Porter Clough.
At the Queen Victoria monument, 50m west-north-west of the main entrance to Endcliffe
Park, the main path divides. The northern walk proceeds west via a stone bridge to
the north side of the river, past the site of a drinking fountain (now gone) formerly
situated 50m north-west of the main entrance. The fountain was erected in 1889 in
memory of Thomas Jessop, founder of the Jessop Hospital. Some 100m to the west, the
stream flows in a channel below the path. On the north side, an open elevated level
area marks the former position of the mill pond of Endcliffe Wheel mill, which, in
the early days of the park, was used as a bathing pool. When the park first opened
the workshops were used as dressing rooms and as a boathouse. The pool was still used
in 1931, when it is recorded that the bathers' accommodation was replaced with a more
modern building (Dickson 1994).
The southern walk follows the northern boundary of the Hallamshire Squash and Tennis
Club and opens into a wide grassed area, 220m west of the main entrance. This land
was acquired in 1887 by the Jubilee Committee, a fact marked by the Jubilee Monument
(listed grade II) sited in the north-east corner, 140m west of the Queen Victoria
monument. This area was used for the Sheffield Show in the late 1950s until the show
moved to a larger space at Hillsborough Park; it is currently (2002) the main sports
area in the park. The Jubilee Obelisk (listed grade II), situated 280m west of the
Jubilee Monument, stands in an elevated position in the west corner of the space,
adjacent to the boundary with Rustlings Road. It is a granite monolith, inaugurated
on Jubilee Day in 1887. It originally stood in Town Hall Square where it provided
a popular site for orators addressing the citizens of Sheffield, before being moved
to its present position in 1904.
Immediately north of the Jubilee Monument, the northern and southern paths converge
and an avenue of mature trees lines the main walk as it proceeds west, with play areas
on the north side, towards a cafe, the latter standing 170m west-north-west from the
Jubilee Monument. Some 25m east of the cafe, the river comes close to the north side
of the main walk. A bandstand, removed in 1957, formerly stood here south of the main
walk. Immediately opposite on the north side are large gritstone stepping stones,
now well-worn but still in use (2002), part of the original park landscaping, leading
over the river to Endcliffe Wood, an area of ancient woodland. The walks created in
the woodland area, described in early accounts (Pawson & Brailsford 1889), are still
in use. In a prominent position in the Wood, 40m north-east of the cafe, a memorial
to US airmen killed when an American fighter plane crashed in the park on 22 February
1944, erected by the Sheffield RAF Association, is visible across the river.
Ascending the valley, the main walk proceeds south-west, now tree-lined, to the former
site of a grinding mill, Holmes Wheel. Immediately north of the path the dam outlet
has been modified to create an informal cascade, embellished with rocks and ornamental
planting. A small flight of stone steps leads to the level of the dam. The main walk
proceeds west, edged in stone, leading up to the dam, elevated above the river course
to the south; it then continues on the south side of the dam. At the western end of
the dam, paths converge: a path from Rustlings Road to the south, defined by a substantial
bed of evergreen structural planting; and a path descending steeply from the Wood
and the Riverdale Road entrance to the north.
West of the dam, the river runs on the north side of the main walk and the park narrows
substantially, with Rustlings Road to the south and Riverdale Road to the north. A
large retaining wall topped with railings was constructed in 1928 on the north-east
boundary adjacent to Riverdale Road. The main walk gradually ascends the valley westwards
through mature woodland towards the most westerly dam, that of a former grinding mill,
Nether Spur-Gear. The dam outlet has been modified to form an impressive waterfall,
with gritstone boulders and ornamental planting. The path climbs to the level of the
dam, elevated above the river running on the north side. As part of the original landscaping
of the park, the dam was modified for wildfowl and has two large islands. The path
then proceeds towards the gateway at the junction of Rustlings Road and Oakbrook Road,
leading out of the park towards the entrance to Bingham Park.
Close to the Rustlings Road entrance to Bingham Park, the area inside the park is
formal with grass areas and shrub and tree plantings, creating a strong visual boundary
and screen along Oakbrook Road. To the south and west the land rises to broad level
terraces with bowling greens, tennis courts, and a miniature golf course at the highest
point on the south side. The main walk proceeds in a south-westerly direction following
the line of the Porter Brook which is north-west of the main walk at this point. Paths
lead west across the river towards one of the dams modified for public amenity (late
C19), situated 250m south-west of the Rustlings Road entrance and now (2002) stocked
with a collection of wildfowl. Flanking the south-east side of the main walk throughout
much of the length of Bingham Park, on the steep valley sides, is an extensive area
of oak woodland. Shepherd Wheel and Shepherd Wheel Dam (scheduled ancient monument,
listed grade II*), 575m south-west of the Rustlings Road entrance, is a former water-powered
scythe works and associated dam.
The main walk proceeds across Highcliffe Road and enters Whiteley Woods, the first
part of which is an area of woodland on either side of the river. There are the remains
of a dam between Highcliffe Road and Whiteley Wood Road and the main walk follows
one of the goits or mill laids, flowing a few metres above the level of the Porter
Brook. The walk continues towards a bridge, stone-built with seating niches and ornamental
copings, linking across the Porter on Whiteley Wood Road. Crossing Whiteley Wood Road,
the walk continues west-south-west through woodland with Wire Mill Dam to the south.
On the north side of Wire Mill Dam, 80m west-south-west of Ivy Cottages, stands the
monument to Thomas Boulsover (listed grade II). Boulsover lived at Whiteley Wood Hall,
now (2002) gone, which formerly stood in an elevated position to the south, overlooking
the Porter valley. The main walk follows the Porter Brook upstream, with the river
on the north side of the walk, through an area of woodland with occasional bridges
crossing small rivulets feeding into the river. There are remnants of ornamental plantings
throughout this area of woodland, particularly at path junctions.
The main path proceeds west-south-west to the junction with Ivy Cottage Lane where
it enters the area known as Forge Dam. Immediately north of the walk is a children's
playground and, south of the walk, the site of a former dam, now in-filled and levelled
with mown grass and perimeter shrub planting. Some 70m west-south-west of the junction
with Ivy Cottage Lane, the main walk passes a cottage and after a further 30m a cafe
(mid-late C20). This occupies the site of a former forge, with remains of the water
wheel evident immediately north of the cafe. The path continues steeply uphill to
the level of the dam, formerly used for boating and skating and now maintained as
a habitat for wildlife. The wider area of Forge Dam consists of woodland and informal
open space, with a network of paths giving access throughout. The main walk passes
around the northern perimeter of the dam and leads towards Wood Cliffe.
Crossing Wood Cliffe, on the western boundary of Forge Dam, the main walk enters the
Porter Clough section of the Porter Valley Parks. Here the walk continues gradually
more steeply uphill, closely following the course of the Porter Brook upstream, crossing
to either side of the Brook at intervals, with the Porter Falls as a focal point in
this section. The surrounding landscape is rural in character and the nature of the
Clough is informal, with woodland and grassland and a network of paths giving access
throughout. The main walk proceeds across Clough Lane to a deep wooded valley or glen.
A network of footpaths weave around and above the glen, affording views down the Clough.
There is evidence of an early cobbled footpath route, on the north side of the glen,
from which excellent views are afforded to the north-east towards Fulwood and to the
city centre beyond. The main walk terminates at Fulwood Lane where there is an informal
car park and information board.
REFERENCES
Pawson & Brailsford, Illustrated Sheffield Guide (1862), pp 191-3 Pawson & Brailsford,
Illustrated Guide to Sheffield (1889), pp 79-81 P Abercrombie, Sheffield Civic Survey
and Development Plan (1924), p 38 H Moggridge, The 70-year old linear parks of Sheffield,
(unpublished report 1993) [copy on EH file] L Dickson, Endcliffe Park, (unpublished
report for Sheffield City Council 1994) J Sewell, A strategy for the heritage parks
and green spaces of Sheffield, (report for Sheffield City Council 1996), pp 39-44
Sheffield's Historic Parks & Gardens, (Sheffield City Council, UDP Policy Background
Policy Paper 1998) [chapter on the Porter Valley Parks] D Hey, A History of Sheffield
(1998), p 72 A le Sage, Vision for Sheffield's Porter Valley, (unpublished report
for Friends of the Porter Valley, 2001) Sheffield Round Walk, guide leaflet, (Sheffield
City Council nd)
Maps OS 25? to mile: 1st edition published 1894 1935 edition
Description written: February 2002 Amended: July 2003 Register Inspector: JS Edited:
July 2003
This garden or other land is registered under the Historic Buildings and Ancient Monuments Act 1953 within the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens by Historic England for its special historic interest.