Identification and description | |||||||||||||
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Name | POLESDEN LACEY | ||||||||||||
Location |
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Localisation | Latitude: 51.259593 Longitude: -0.36788725 National Grid Reference: TQ1398152424 Map: Download a full scale map (PDF) |
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Overview | Heritage Category: Park and Garden Grade: II* List Entry Number: 1000300 Date first listed: 01-Jun-1984 |
Gardens and pleasure grounds laid out in 1761, modified by R B Sheridan in 1790s,
and by Joseph Bonsor in c 1820-5, when the estate was enlarged and walled gardens
were built. Walled gardens laid out as flower gardens from c 1906 onwards.
HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT
There has been a house at Polesden Lacey since at least the C12 but the first house
whose appearance is known was built for the Rous family and completed by 1631. The
estate was purchased by Arthur Moore, an economist and politician, in 1723 and his
son, William, extended the house between 1735 and 1748. The Moores probably began
the construction of the Long Walk or Terrace, which overlooks the park. The Sheridan
family purchased the estate in 1797 and the house was in ruins by c 1814, when Richard
Brinsley Sheridan, the playwright and politician, pulled most of it down with the
intention of rebuilding it. However it was left to Joseph Bonsor, a stationer and
bookseller, who purchased the estate in 1818, to rebuild the house to the designs
of Thomas Cubitt. Bonsor was also responsible for planting thousands of trees, and
renovating the garden, park, and estate. Sir Walter Farquhar purchased the estate
in 1853 from the Bonsor family, and he enlarged the house between 1853 and 1870, preserving
most of Cubitt's structure. Farquhar's house was in turn rebuilt in 1903-5 by Ambrose
Poynter for Sir Clinton Dawkins, a civil servant and financier, who owned Polesden
Lacey between 1902 and his death in 1906. Mrs Greville and her husband, Captain the
Hon Ronald Greville, bought Polesden in 1906 and commissioned Mewes and Davis to alter
the house. Ronald Greville died in 1909 but Mrs Greville continued to own Polesden
Lacey until 1942, during which time she entertained Edward VII and other members of
the royal family there. The Polesden Lacey Estate was bequeathed to the National Trust
in 1942, and the house and garden were rearranged for public opening. The National
Trust continue (2000) to own and manage the estate.
DESCRIPTION
LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING Polesden Lacey and its surrounding grounds
of c 126ha (as here registered), is located 2km to the south-east of Effingham and
4km to the north-west of Dorking, in the county of Surrey. It is bounded by Bagden
Wood and Ranmore Common to the south, Polesden Road to the north-west, Bagden Hill
along the southern part of the east side, and open farmland to the south-west, west,
north-east, and south-east. The house and gardens are on a ridge which runs from west
to east, and from the ridge the ground falls gently to the north and more steeply
to the south, before rising steeply again to Ranmore Common. There are good views
from the higher ground, especially the lawns to the south of the house and from The
Terrace or Long Walk, looking southwards over the pasture backed by Bagden Wood. The
boundaries of the park are mostly marked by fences.
ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES Polesden Lacey is approached along Polesden Road to the north,
planted with an avenue of C18 beech trees, to a triangular turning area, from where
a straight drive leads south to the North Lodge and through an entrance arch designed
by Sir Hugh Casson in 1958. To the south of the arch the drive, lined by an avenue
of beech trees (planted in 1956 to replace the C18 beech avenue), leads south for
550m before turning west for 100m to arrive at a forecourt to the east of the house.
At a point 350m south of the North Lodge further drives lead off to the south-west
to outbuildings and stables north of the house, and to the south-east to a visitors'
car park, surrounded by rhododendrons, horse chestnuts, and conifers, on the west
side of Preserve Copse. Bagden Lodge, on the Bagden Hill section of Chapel Lane, marks
the start of an approach from the east, from where a drive curves through the south
end of Freehold Wood, over a bridge (crossing Connicut Lane) and then north-west for
400m and west for 400m to the entrance forecourt on the east side of the house. The
forecourt is gravelled, with a C15 Venetian well-head standing in the centre and clipped
golden yew in dome-shapes around the edge.
PRINCIPAL BUILDING The present house (listed grade II) was built in 1821-4 by Joseph
Bonsor under the supervision of Thomas Cubitt as a simple Grecian villa. The house
was enlarged for Sir Walter Farquhar in 1853-70 and rebuilt by Ambrose Poynter in
1903-5 for Sir Clinton Dawkins. It was enlarged to its present size by Mewes and Davis
in 1906 for Ronald Greville. The two-storey houses is stuccoed, and is in the form
of a quadrangle around a large central courtyard with an apsidal end. It has a symmetrical
E-shaped entrance front (3:3:3 bays between projecting wings with a projecting pedimented
centre), behind which is an octagonal two-stage cupola with a domed roof. The asymmetrical
ten-bay south front has an Ionic octostyle loggia at the centre. The house has a projecting
wing in the north-west corner with an Ionic colonnade on its south side, a symmetrical
west front, and a service wing which forms the north range. The house was converted
in the late C20 into the regional offices for the National Trust. This house replaced
a house built in 1631 for the Rous family, which itself replaced the original, medieval
house.
A path with a C19 lime avenue runs north from the west side of the house to the stable
courtyard which now (2000) serves as a shop and restaurant.
GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS On the west side of the house is the West Lawn, with
scattered trees including a black mulberry planted by the Prince of Wales in 1988
to replace one planted by Edward VII in 1907 (lost in the Great Storm of 1987). To
the north of the lawn is a pets' graveyard, amongst shrubs, and to the west of this,
Mrs Greville's Grave in an enclosure surrounded by yew hedges, with C18 statuettes
of the Four Seasons along the north side.
The West Lawn leads to a series of early C20 flower gardens which were laid out in
the former early C19 kitchen gardens (C19 red-brick walls listed grade II). The walled
gardens lie between 80m and 200m to the west of the house and include, from east to
west, a Rose Garden, an Iris Garden, a Lavender Garden, and a Winter Garden, with
ranges of bothies and glasshouses along the north side of the sequence. The east entrance
to the Rose Garden is marked by a pair of stone griffins and from here a path leads
west beneath a wooden pergola planted with rambling roses, to a C14 Italian well-head
at the centre of the enclosure. From this point a cross-path leads north/south beneath
further pergolas, dividing the garden into four rectangular beds, planted with roses,
with borders of shrub roses, geraniums, and fuchsias, and edges of lavender and box.
Set against the north wall are statues of the Four Seasons, while the wall itself
supports roses, clematis, and wisteria. The Rose Garden is dominated by a water tower
on the north side, which still (2000) supplies the garden with water. The main path
through the Rose Garden continues westwards into a second walled garden, divided with
yew hedges into three small gardens and bounded by C19 walls at the west and east
ends and a C20 wall along the south side. The south wall is pierced with circular
windows to allow views to and from the south and was added by Mrs Greville in 1912.
The first garden has borders of peonies and lilies and to the west of this is an Iris
Garden planted with old cultivars of Bearded Iris, with a statue on a tall sundial
at its centre. To the west of the Iris Garden is the Lavender Garden with beds of
Dutch and English lavender.
Beyond the west wall of the second walled garden is a Winter Garden, with trees underplanted
with winter and early spring flowering bulbs and shrubs. From the Winter Garden a
path leads southwards along the western boundary of the garden, then eastwards to
a long herbaceous border which runs along the south wall of the walled gardens. To
the south of the herbaceous border is a croquet lawn, with a statue in the south-east
corner, and shrubs and some cedars of Lebanon planted in the 1960s around the edge.
A bank divides the lawn from the Sunken Garden, an area planted with mature shrubs
and trees, and with a rock garden at the west end. The Rock Garden is formed of Westmorland
limestone and planted with dwarf shrubs and can also be approached from the steps
down from the west end of the herbaceous border.
Several paths lead east through the Sunken Garden and onto the South Lawn, which lies
to the south of the house. The lawn was the site of an early C20 fountain and flower
garden commissioned by Captain Greville. A scheme put forward by the firm Murray and
Seddon for an extensive Italian Garden in 1907 was only partially executed and was
grassed over in the late C20. The lawn is bounded on the south side by an early C20
yew hedge and offers good views to the south over the park to Bagden Wood and Ranmore
Common. The yew hedge continues to the east, forming the southern boundary of a c
500m long terrace known as the Long Walk, which was started in the 1760s and extended
in c 1800 by Sheridan. The Walk runs from west to east and is retained by a limestone
rubble wall (listed grade II), with the yew hedge standing above the ha-ha. The western
end is marked by a pair of stone columns surmounted by lions and from here the Walk
leads eastwards past seats and statuary, to a semicircular bay with equidistant rectangular
bays, projecting to the south. There are views southwards along the length of the
Walk over the park to Bagden Wood. It terminates at six tall Doric columns, part of
the Doric portico of Joseph Bonsor's house, placed here in 1903 by Sir Clinton Dawkins.
The Nun's Walk runs parallel to the Long Walk to the north, with late C20 planting
of beech, yew, and holly which replaced the C18 and C19 trees which were felled in
the 1970s. To the north of the eastern end of the Nun's Walk is an open-air theatre
constructed in 1951 and to the north of the western end of the Nun's Walk is a Pinetum,
with mature redwoods, cedars, spruce, and yew.
Admiral's Walk lies to the north of the east drive and runs parallel with the drive,
Nun's Walk, and the Long Walk. The Walk is planted with mature trees and self-sown
oaks and rhododendrons and runs along the south side of the car park and a picnic
area in Preserve Copse.
PARK The northern part of the park lies to the west and east of the main entrance
drive from the north and consists of gently sloping ground with scattered trees and
small clumps, including mature beech trees, with sweet and Spanish chestnuts.
There are large blocks of woodland on the east and south sides of the northern part
of the park, including Connicut Wood to the east and Freehold Wood to the south-east,
both mixed plantations with ash, oak, and beech, and Preserve Copse to the south,
between the gardens and the park, planted with coniferous trees including Wellingtonias,
redwoods, pines, cypress trees, and spruce. To the south-east of Preserve Copse is
a former tree nursery for the estate, now (2000) planted with a mixture of pine, beech,
oak, poplar, and Japanese maple. In the area of park to the east of the Nursery are
several clumps of copper beech.
To the south of the garden is an area of park, backed by Bagden Wood and Ranmore Common.
The sloping ground is planted with copses and small clumps of trees, some of which
were derived from woodland or shaws which have been opened up in the C20. A C17 house,
Tanner's Hatch (now a Youth Hostel; listed grade II), stands on the southern edge
of the park. In the south-west corner of the southern part of the park (as here registered)
is Prospect Lodge, a cottage built in 1854 by Sir Walter Farquhar, from where there
are good views of the garden and house.
KITCHEN GARDEN The early C20 kitchen gardens lie c 250m to the west of the house and
are approached from the Winter Garden by an early C20 wooden bridge with a thatched
roof which spans a cutting, excavated in 1861, for the road leading to Polesden Farm
and Yew Tree Farm. The garden is now (2000) laid to grass, bounded by hedges and backed
by woodland. In the late C20 it was planted with four squares of lime trees, with
crossing avenues of common cherry. An early C20 thatched summerhouse terminates the
west end of the east/west path. This garden was developed to replace the early C19
walled gardens of c 1.2ha when the latter were developed as ornamental gardens in
the early C20 (see above).
REFERENCES
J P Neale, Views ... 1, (1824) E W Brayley and J Britton, Topographical history of
Surrey 4, (1841-8), p 471 W Keane, Beauties of Surrey (1849), pp 114-15 Country Life,
103 (5 March 1948), pp 478-81, 526; 169 (12 February 1981), pp 378-9 Proc Leatherhead
& District Local Hist Soc 1, no 9 (1955), pp 25-9 M Allen, Fisons Guide (1970), p
60 N Pevsner et al, The Buildings of England: Surrey (1971), pp 414-15 Polesden Lacey,
guidebook, (National Trust 1973) T Wright, Gardens of Britain 4, (1978), pp 224-9
Polesden Lacey garden, guidebook, (National Trust 1992) Polesden Lacey: Park and Garden
Survey, (National Trust 1990/2)
Maps John Rocque, Map of Surrey, surveyed c 1762, published 1768 Estate survey, 1797
(in National Trust 1990/2) Estate survey, 1818 (in National Trust 1990/2) Tithe map
for Great Bookham parish, 1842 (in National Trust 1990/2)
OS 25" to 1 mile: 1st edition surveyed 1868-9 2nd edition revised 1894-5, published
1896 3rd edition revised 1912, published 1914
Description written: April 2000 Register Inspector: CB Edited: April 2003
This garden or other land is registered under the Historic Buildings and Ancient Monuments Act 1953 within the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens by Historic England for its special historic interest.