Identification and description | |||||||||||||||||||
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Name | BICTON | ||||||||||||||||||
Location |
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Localisation | Latitude: 50.668957 Longitude: -3.3198553 National Grid Reference: SY 06824 86308, SY 07035 85422 Map: Download a full scale map (PDF) |
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Overview | Heritage Category: Park and Garden Grade: I List Entry Number: 1000338 Date first listed: 12-Aug-1987 |
Early C18 formal gardens with later C18 and C19 structures, set in C18 and C19 parkland
and pleasure grounds with a mid C19 arboretum, on which W S Gilpin, John Webb and
J C Loudon advised.
HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT
Bicton belonged to William Porto in the mid C11, and subsequently passed to the Arbalister,
Sachvill and Copleston families. In the mid C16 it was sold to Sir Robert Dennys,
who built a manor house to the south of the present mansion, and enclosed a deer park.
The estate passed by marriage and inheritance to Henry Rolle of Stevenstone in north
Devon in the early C17. John Rolle (d 1730) demolished the C16 manor house and began
to construct the present mansion on a new site, but this remained incomplete at his
death and was not finally completed until c 1800. Formal gardens were developed c
1735 by John Rolle's son, Henry (d 1759), who was created Baron Rolle in 1748. Henry
Rolle's brother, Dennis (d 1797) made extensive plantations at Bicton in the mid C18,
including 101,394 Scots pines, for which he received a gold medal from the Society
of Arts in 1761 (Jacques 1983). John, second Baron Rolle inherited Bicton in 1797,
and employed James Wyatt to complete the house (Cherry and Pevsner 1989), and expanded
the park, making improvements with the advice of John Webb (1754-1828) and William
Sawrey Gilpin (1762-1843). In the 1830s Robert Glendinning (1805-62) was head gardener
at Bicton, and was advised on the development of the grounds by James Veitch of Exeter
and J C Loudon (Elliott 1986). Glendinning was succeeded in 1839 by James Barnes (1806-77),
who remained in office until 1868. Under the supervision of these men, Bicton was
recognised as one of the most important gardens in the country, and was praised by
Loudon in 1842 (Gardener's Mag). Lord John Rolle's second wife was Louisa Trefusis
(d 1885), daughter of the seventeenth Baron Clinton, and after Lord John's death in
1842 Bicton passed to her nephew, the Hon Mark Trefusis, who in 1852 assumed the name
of Rolle. The dowager Lady Rolle continued to make improvements to Bicton in the mid
C19. On the death of the Hon Mark Rolle in 1907, Bicton passed to his nephew, Charles,
twenty-first Baron Clinton (d 1957), for whom the mansion was remodelled in 1908-9.
During the Second World War the House was used by a girls' boarding school evacuated
from Sussex, and in 1946 a lease on the House, park and Home Farm was granted to Devon
County Council to establish the Devon Farm Institute. In 1955 the Devon Agricultural
College purchased the property, while the formal gardens and remainder of the park
continued in private occupation. The formal gardens were opened to the public c 1960,
and were vested in the Bicton Park Trust Company in 1986. They were subsequently sold
in 1998 and remain a commercial undertaking, while the south-west area of the park
accommodates an equestrian arena developed in 1975, and, together with Baker's Brake
to the north-west, remains (1999) private property.
DESCRIPTION
LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING Bicton is situated c 3km north of Budleigh
Salterton and c 1.5km north-west of the village of Otterton, to the west of the A376
road which runs north from Budleigh Salterton to Newton Poppleford. The c 130ha site
comprises some 20ha of formal gardens and pleasure grounds, and c 110ha of parkland
and woodland. To the east the site is bounded by walls and fences adjoining the A376
road, while to the west the boundary is formed by hedge banks on a minor road leading
north from East Budleigh to Stowford. To the south, north-west and north it adjoins
agricultural land. The site slopes gently from a ridge of high ground, Baker's Brake,
on the north-west towards the south-east boundary, with Bicton House standing above
a shallow valley which runs from west to south-east. The site enjoys views south,
east and north-east across adjoining agricultural land and the valley of the River
Otter c 1.5km east. There are wide views in all directions from the Belvedere in Baker's
Brake, while vistas radiate from the formal gardens to the obelisk to the south, and
a group of pines on high ground to the south-east.
ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES The site is approached from the A376 road to the east, at
a point c 1.5km north-east of the village of East Budleigh. Low, concave stuccoed
brick wing walls terminating in stuccoed piers flank the Sidmouth Lodge (all listed
grade II*), a pair of two-storey, rusticated, stuccoed early C19 lodges linked by
a monumental arch surmounted by the Rolle arms carved in stone. Opposite the lodge,
to the east of the A376 road, curved iron railings supported by four piers (listed
grade II) allow views over agricultural land. Entering the site the tarmac drive is
flanked to north and south by groups of mid C20 houses set behind wide lawns. After
c 50m the drive enters an avenue of monkey puzzles, originally planted by James Barnes
with the advice of James Veitch in 1842, using plants raised from seed collected for
the Veitch nursery by William Lobb (1809-63). The avenue, some 400m in length, was
widened in 1852 (Elliott 1986). Today (1999), several original trees planted on mounds
survive, while new specimens have been introduced to fill gaps. The avenue leads to
Flint Lodge, also known as New Lodge, which stands to the north of a gateway flanked
by tall, square, red-brick piers surmounted by carved stone lions holding shields.
Iron railings with spear finials stand on low brick walls decorated with a flint band
to north and south of the gateway, forming a total length of c 60m. To the south of
the gateway, the railings are supported by a further brick pier with a carved stone
pineapple vase finial, and the railings terminate to the south at a further gateway
(disused, 1999) formerly leading from the park to the formal gardens, and which is
formed by brick piers with bands of flint ornamentation, surmounted by similar pineapple
finials (all listed grade II). The drive east of Flint Lodge was constructed in the
early C19 as part of Lord John Rolle's extension of the park, although a plan of c
1758 indicates the existence of an informal avenue or vista across farmland on the
line of the mid C19 monkey puzzle avenue. From Flint Lodge the drive sweeps north
and north-west for c 350m across the park, to approach the carriage circle to the
south of the House from the south-east. Today (1999) car parking facilities have been
constructed east of the House. A service drive diverts north-west c 30m south-east
of the House to reach the stables which adjoin the House immediately to the north.
Passing late C20 college buildings north-east of the House, a spur leads c 160m north-west
to the kitchen garden, and thence west c 270m to a minor lane which separates the
pleasure grounds from Baker's Brake to the north-west. The early C19 south-west drive
enters the site at Sandycross Lodge (listed grade II), a pair of single-storey, neo-classical,
square-plan lodge houses standing c 10m north of ornate early C19 wrought-iron gates
and pedestrian gates supported on wrought-iron piers surmounted by heraldic badges
and coronets. The gates are flanked by low stone walls which extend east and west
to tall stone piers surmounted by the Rolle arms carved in stone. The piers are in
turn flanked by low quadrant walls terminating in similar tall stone piers. Opposite
the lodges, south of the road, a similar low stone wall with ornamental piers closes
the view from the park. The south-west drive passes north for c 260m through the park,
before turning east-north-east and north-east for c 670m to reach Aldergrove Lodge,
an early C19 single-storey cottage orné constructed in flint, set behind early C19
ornamental wrought-iron railings, which stands c 530m south-west of the House. From
Aldergrove Lodge the drive passes north-east across the park to approach the House
and carriage court from the south-west. The south-west drive today (1999) serves the
late C20 Bicton Arena in the south-west park, the construction of which has obliterated
its course from a point c 400m north-east of Sandycross Lodge. North-east of Aldergrove
Lodge the drive survives as a concrete track serving mid and late C20 agricultural
buildings immediately to the north.
PRINCIPAL BUILDING Bicton House (listed grade II*) is said to have been commenced
in the early C18 when John Rolle demolished a C16 house which stood on a site to the
south of the present house (Bicton College 1992). The House remained unfinished until
c 1800, when Lord John Rolle commissioned James Wyatt to complete the structure (Cherry
and Pevsner 1989). It was further remodelled and enlarged in 1908-9 by Sir Walter
Tapper for Lord Clinton. Today (1999) the red-brick house comprises a three-storey,
square-plan main block with a central south-facing bow and single-storey portico supported
on pairs of Tuscan columns, which extends the full width of the facade. The main block
is symmetrical, with stucco ornamentation and a roof balustrade. It was raised to
its present height in 1908-9. The main block is connected by lower, two-storey quadrant
wings to two-storey east and west wings, which partly enclose the carriage and service
court to the north. The north wing is pierced by a large central carriageway which
is surmounted by a bellcote.
GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS The C19 pleasure grounds lie to the west of the House,
and are connected to the detached early C18 formal gardens to the south-east by a
carriage drive which runs through the early C19 arboretum to the west, south-west
and south of the House. Immediately adjoining the House, early C20 square formal gardens
with geometric beds separated by gravel walks are enclosed by early C20 brick balustrades.
These gardens, set in the angles between the main block and the lower east and west
wings, are approached from the carriage circle by stone steps leading to low, white-painted
early C20 wrought-iron gates supported by low brick piers surmounted by stone ball
finials. The pleasure grounds west of the House comprise C19 and C20 mixed ornamental
planting, separated from parkland by an early C19 ornamental iron fence, the design
of which is attributed to W S Gilpin (Bicton College 1992). The fence follows an irregular
serpentine plan and is continued along the entire length of the boundary separating
the arboretum from the park. A mid C19 otter pool lying c 50m west of the House in
a glade in the pleasure grounds comprises a circular pool c 5m in diameter, enclosed
by a raised stone curb supporting tall iron railings. Two narrow stone walks supported
on pierced brick walls divide the pool and lead to a central island composed of rustic
rockwork. The outer stone kerb is supported on brick arches. The pool was used to
house otters in the mid C19 (B Wright pers comm, 1999). The arboretum carriage drive
leaves the south-west drive at a point c 50m west of the House, and passes c 400m
north and north-west through the pleasure grounds and arboretum. Turning south-west,
a subsidiary drive leads north-west through tall wooden gates supported on stone piers
with pyramid caps, across a public road to enter Baker's Brake. The main carriage
drive continues south-west for c 370m, running parallel to a stone wall which separates
the grounds from the public road. Some 400m west-north-west of the House the carriage
drive passes an arched stone recess built against the boundary wall, which in the
C19 contained an ancient tree stump which served as a boundary marker (B Wright pers
comm, 1999). Some 530m west of the House the drive turns south and south-south-east
for c 400m, passing through an overgrown area containing the remains of a rock garden
attributed to W A T Ingwersen (1905-90) (Bicton College 1992), to reach Aldergrove
Lodge and the south-west drive. Continuing to the east of the drive, the carriage
drive passes through further C19 ornamental planting, overlooking a shallow valley
to the north which contains a mid C19 rock and water garden, beyond which stands a
picturesque rustic Hermitage of 1839 (all listed grade II*), c 350m south-west of
the House. The Hermitage stands on a terrace connected to a lower terrace and long
stone-lined pool with a central island by a flight of stone steps, and is a single-storey
brick structure clad in rustic timber with a fish-scale shingle roof. The building
is backed by trees and evergreen shrubs, while the rockeries and cascades to east
and west are planted with dwarf conifers. Late C20 planting follows a path and narrow-gauge
railway constructed in 1976 leading east to the formal gardens. The arboretum carriage
drive continues south from the Hermitage, following a stone ha-ha which allows views
west across the park. After c 260m the drive turns east, following the site boundary
for c 260m and entering an area of informal mid C19 planting west of the formal gardens
and south of the lake. This was developed as a pinetum and retains predominantly evergreen
planting today (1999). Late C20 buildings and play areas have been constructed in
a depression south-east of the lake c 480m south-south-east of the House. The arboretum
and pinetum were developed in 1839-40 for Lord John Rolle and Lady Rolle by Robert
Glendinning, with advice from W S Gilpin, J C Loudon and James Veitch. Messrs Veitch
and Son of Exeter supplied staff who were responsible for the maintenance of the trees
and shrubs, which were arranged according to the 'Natural System', with specimens
planted and labelled so as to be visible from a carriage (Gardener's Mag 1842).
The formal gardens occupy a south-west-facing slope c 500m south-east of the House,
and were originally separated from the House and park by a public road (closed c 1800)
which followed the ha-ha and wrought-iron fence south of Flint Lodge. The gardens
were developed c 1730 by Henry Rolle, and a plan of c 1758 shows a sloping lawn enclosed
by trees and shrubbery to north-west and south-east which descended to a large U-shaped
canal with an axially placed circular pool to the south. The U-shaped canal enveloped
a large rectangular pond to the north. The pond and canal survive today (1999). The
central north/south axis of the gardens is aligned on an obelisk (listed grade II)
which stands in fields c 1km south of the House (included as an outlier in the registered
area). The vista is framed by steep grass banks planted with trees, and further banks
south of the ponds screen the churchyard and ruins of the C15 parish church which
was partly converted into a mausoleum for Lady Rolle by A W N Pugin in 1850 (listed
grade I). The gardens were further embellished in the early and mid C19 with structures
and ornaments (all listed grade II*), and a new parish church (listed grade II*) built
to designs by J Hayward in 1848-50. The church stands on a lawn enclosed by a late
C20 yew hedge at the south-east extremity of the formal gardens some 750m south-east
of the House, and serves as an eyecatcher. In the early C19 the formal gardens were
enclosed to east and west by brick walls (listed grade II*), and the slope divided
into three south-facing terraces separated by grass slopes. To the north the curved
orangery (listed grade II*) was constructed, enclosing the gardens from service yards.
The pedimented, open central colonnade is flanked to east and west by curved rooms
lit by tall sash windows. The facade is ornamented with Coade stone busts of Lord
Nelson and Sir Walter Raleigh set on fluted pedestals in niches, while the pediment
contains a bust of the Duke of Wellington. The orangery is flanked to each side by
two C19 stepped-down lean-to glasshouses (all listed grade II*). On the sloping terrace
below the orangery are two circular pools with lead figure fountains, and to south-east
and south-west by monumental, octagonal, stone-edged raised flower beds. Geometric
beds for seasonal bedding are cut in the lawn, together with circular beds containing
rhododendrons, specimen conifers and Torbay palms. A perimeter path of tarmac laid
over cobbles extends south-east and south-west from the orangery to flights of stone
steps with C19 cast-iron handrails, which descend to the second terrace. A transverse
walk linking the steps is ornamented by a pair of C19 stone bench seats. The second
or middle terrace is narrow and laid to lawn enclosed to north and south by transverse
walks. The third terrace comprises the early and mid C18 water garden, enclosed to
the south by a further walk. A five-tiered C19 cast-iron fountain stands on a granite
pedestal in the centre of the pool.
The upper terrace of the formal gardens is extended west from the orangery to form
a further south-west-facing terrace on which stands an early C19 palm house (listed
grade I). Standing c 480m south-south-east of the House, the palm house was built
c 1820-5 and comprises a cast-iron-framed, domed central house flanked to east and
west by lower domed houses which project from a high stone and brick north wall containing
louvered vents. The palm house was restored c 1980 and contains a collection of exotic
plants including palms. A terrace walk adjoining the palm house is ornamented with
C19 urns on pedestals, and leads west to a gateway in the brick garden wall which
gives access to the pinetum. A grass slope below the terrace walk descends to lawns
planted with specimen trees and shrubs, and a rose garden (restored c 1990) which
overlooks a late C20 Mediterranean garden below the stone and brick ha-ha which retains
the palm house terrace.
East of the formal garden and entered through an arch in the garden wall east of the
orangery, an area of early and mid C19 informal gardens is known as the American Garden.
Some 660m south-east of the House and c 80m south-east of the orangery, the early
C19 Shell House (listed grade II) is a rustic flint and limestone grotto in the form
of a circular, single-storey structure containing a south-west-facing circular room
overlooking an early C19 rockery constructed from large blocks of rough stone (listed
grade II). The rockery is symmetrical on plan and has a central circular pool containing
a fountain in the form of a rocky cairn. Walks extend south-east from the American
Garden through an area of informal planting, developed as a stream garden in 1990.
Here, c 750m south-east of the House, a group of eight Bronze Age standing stones
(listed grade II) (originally from Mutters Moor near Sidmouth) were re-erected as
a garden feature in the early or mid C19. The stones were removed c 1990.
PARK Lying to the west, south and east of the House, the park developed from a C17
core which lay around the earlier house to the south of the present mansion. The C17
and C18 park was separated from agricultural land to the east by a brick ha-ha c 430m
in length, which survives in the park north of Flint Lodge, and the wall and wrought-iron
fence which survives to the south of Flint Lodge. A public road adjoined the ha-ha
to the east, but was diverted to its present course c 700m east of the House in the
early C19, when the park was extended to its present eastern boundary. John Webb produced
a plan with proposed improvements to the park in 1825, and James Veitch advised Lord
John Rolle in 1826-7 on planting in the new east park (Bicton College 1992). To the
south-west the C18 park extended to the site of Aldergrove Lodge, but was extended
south-west to the present entrance at Sandycross Lodge in the early C19. Some 190m
south of the House an irregular lake with two small islands was formed c 1835 by the
head gardener, Robert Glendinning, under the direction of W S Gilpin (Gardener's Mag
1842). The lake is lined with large pebbles, and is retained by a dam to the south-east,
with a late C19 timber boathouse in a small mixed plantation on the north shore c
190m south of the House. A mid C18 survey of Bicton shows a narrow, informal serpentine
lake or artificial river running c 480m from west to east some 100m south of the House.
This feature survived to be shown on a parish plan of 1838, but appears to have been
removed c 1840 as it is not mentioned in Loudon's description of 1842 (ibid), or shown
on the mid C19 Tithe map. The east drive was carried across the serpentine river on
a single-arched stone bridge c 190m south-east of the House, which is shown in a view
of 1831. The bridge does not survive.
KITCHEN GARDEN Some 160m north of the House, the square kitchen garden is enclosed
by brick walls c 3m high with stone coping. A range of late C19 brick and timber lean-to
glasshouses stands against the inner face of the north wall, and fruit trees, including
figs and pears, are trained against the inner faces of the west and south walls. Further
fruit trees are trained on the outer walls. The garden retains a central circular
dipping pool and cruciform paths, and is today (1999) divided into a series of display
gardens and areas for commercial crops (guidebook). South-east of the kitchen garden
the frame yard is (1999) used as a plant sales area, and retains the brick structures
of several cold frames. The C19 gardener's house stands c 30m west of the kitchen
garden.
OTHER LAND Baker's Brake, a plantation c 400m north-west of the House, was developed
as part of the mid C19 pleasure grounds, with a network of carriage drives and walks
linked to the arboretum carriage drive north-west of the House, as shown on a plan
of 1843. In 1839-42 Lady Rolle built the Belvedere or China Tower, a four-storey,
gothic, castellated folly on high ground in the plantation. Today (1999) Baker's Brake
is predominantly a commercial coniferous plantation, but ornamental planting survives
on the southern boundary, together with a network of drives which appear to conform
to the C19 pattern. The Belvedere also survives and affords wide views across the
site and surrounding country.
REFERENCES
R Polwhele, The History of Devonshire II, (1793-1806), pp 221-2 R Ackerman, Repository
5, (1809-28), pl 1 T Allom, Devonshire Illustrated (1829-32) W W J Gendall, Views
of the country seats ...II, (1830), p 63 J B Britton and E W Brayley, Devon & Cornwall
Illustrated (1832), p 100 Gardener's Magazine 14, (1838), pp 510-12; 18, (1842), pp
552-5, 617-21; 19, (1843), pp 20-3, 46-52, 111-13, 138-9, 164-6, 234-8, 301-6, 419-26,
601-7, 653-7 The Cottage Gardener 21, (1858), pp 49-51, 65-8 J Royal Horticultural
Soc 46, (1871), pp 221-3 Gardeners' Chronicle, ii (1894), pp 529-30; ii (1898), pp
153-4, 177-8, 183, 190-1 Country Life, 14 (1903), pp 854-62 G Jekyll, Garden Ornament
(1918), pp 343-4, 346 Bicton Trees and Shrubs (1934) A M Rockley, Historic Gardens
of England (1938), pp 154-5 W G Hoskins, Devon (1954), p 335 E R Delderfield, West
Country Houses (1968), pp 10-13 N D G James, The Trees of Bicton (1969) B Jones, Follies
and Grottoes (1974), pp 311-12 P M Synge, Gardens of Britain I, (1977), pp 23-9 D
Jacques, Georgian Gardens, The Reign of Nature (1983), p 67 B Elliott, Victorian Gardens
(1986), pp 35-7, 214 B Cherry and N Pevsner, The Buildings of England: Devon (1989),
pp 172-4 Bicton Park Restoration Plan, (Bicton College of Agriculture 1992) T Gray,
The Garden History of Devon An Illustrated Guide to Sources (1995), pp 43-5 The Gardens
at Bicton Park, guidebook, (nd) Guide to the Gardens and Grounds, guidebook, (Bicton
College of Agriculture nd) St Mary's Church, Bicton A Brief Guide, guidebook, (Bicton
Parish Church nd)
Maps A Map of the Parish of Bicton, c 1758 (private collection) John Webb, A Plan
of the Park and Demesne lands of Bicton ... with some alterations, 1825, (private
collection) J Olten, A Plan of the Parish of Bicton in the County of Devon, surveyed
1835, published 1838 (Devon Record Office) Tithe map for Bicton parish, c 1840 (Devon
Record Office) Bicton, Devon, 1843 (Devon Record Office) W Ewens, Map of Bicton Estate,
Devon, the property of the Right Honble Lady Rolle, 1852, (Devon Record Office) Bicton,
Devon, 1855 (private collection)
OS 6" to 1 mile: 1st edition surveyed 1888, published 1889 2nd edition revised 1903,
published 1906
Archival items Some Rolle family papers including estate papers, personal papers and
accounts are held at the Devon Record Office (96addM). Clinton and Rolle estate papers
including estate plans (private collection)
Description written: July 1999 Amended: August 1999; May 2000 Register Inspector:
JML Edited: July 2000
This garden or other land is registered under the Historic Buildings and Ancient Monuments Act 1953 within the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens by Historic England for its special historic interest.