Identification and description | |||||||
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Name | CHRISTCHURCH MANSION | ||||||
Location |
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Localisation | Latitude: 52.063641 Longitude: 1.1558346 National Grid Reference: TM 16419 45285 Map: Download a full scale map (PDF) |
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Overview | Heritage Category: Park and Garden Grade: II List Entry Number: 1000227 Date first listed: 01-Jun-1984 |
The site of a former priory, the house was given to the town in 1894 when its surroundings
were purchased as a public park. Part of the C16 house is built on the site of the
priory remains, set in a substantially C19 park containing remnants of the C17 and
C18 landscape.
HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT
The estate of Christchurch was established by the Augustinian Priory of the Holy Trinity
in the C12 (c 1147) and originally covered 643 acres (c 268ha) of farmland. The Priory
was suppressed in 1536 and its estates seized by the Crown. In 1545 the manor of Christchurch
was sold to Paul Withypoll. His son Edmund inherited in 1547 and began construction
of a house on the ruins of the Priory in 1548. The estate remained in the Withypoll
family until 1645 when Elizabeth Withypoll inherited. She was married to Leicester
Devereux who in 1649 became the sixth Viscount Hereford. Together, Elizabeth and Leicester
made many changes, including substantial rebuilding of the house following a fire
sometime prior to 1674. The southern section of what is now (1998) the park is depicted
on Ogilby's map of Ipswich dated 1674 and this shows the elaborate parterres and formal
gardens which surrounded the Mansion at that time. This map also shows the beginning
of an avenue running north from the Mansion and a circular pond situated off the north-west
corner of the building. Both these features survive in the park today and diarists
of the time, most notably Celia Fiennes in 1698 and Sir James Thornhill in 1711 mention
the pleasant pleasure ground, the fine fishponds and the bowling greens. In 1732 the
tenth Viscount Hereford sold the estate, then comprising 70 acres (c 29ha), to Charles
Fonnereau, a rich Hamburg merchant. Fonnereau built an underground icehouse, the remains
of which survive in the park north of the Mansion, and formed a rectangular green
on the forecourt.
The park has a long association with the inhabitants of Ipswich, diarists writing
from the early C18 onwards record use of the park by the public, in particular Defoe
in 1724 and Captain George Elers in 1811. In 1847 the Fonnereau family leased 13 acres
(c 5.5ha) along the western boundary of the park to be used permanently for public
enjoyment. The 13 acres was divided into two by a narrow lane known as the Bridle
Way. The Upper Arboretum was leased to Ipswich Corporation as a public pleasure ground
for the lower classes and was adorned with flower beds, gravel paths and seats. The
Lower Arboretum was leased to a syndicate which opened it to subscribers and to the
fee-paying public. In 1892 William Neale Fonnereau put the estate up for sale and
a property syndicate purchased the majority of the site for development. A local benefactor
however, Felix Thornley Cobbold, purchased the Mansion as a gift to the town on the
condition that the Corporation purchased the remainder of the park. Thus only a small
section at the southern end of the west boundary, together with a strip along the
north boundary, were lost to development. The resulting 28ha site was opened to the
public in 1895 and the Mansion turned into a museum and art gallery. The Lower Arboretum
was purchased by the Borough in 1922 and the Upper Arboretum in 1928. Since that time
the boundary of the park has remained the same.
DESCRIPTION
LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING Christchurch Park lies in the centre
of the county town of Ipswich, just north of the old town wall. It is generally rectangular
in shape, tapering at the south end where the southern boundary formed by Soane Street
is of the earliest origins, being shown on Ogilby's map of 1674. Along the northern
boundary lies Park Road which was developed for housing in 1894 when the park was
acquired by the Borough. The eastern boundary is formed by Bolton Lane to the south,
running into Westerfield Road as it goes north, and follows a very similar line to
that shown on Kirby's map of 1735. To the west lies Henley Road which was also built
up in the C19; opposite the lodge entrance to the Upper Arboretum stands a large,
late C19 school building. The park covers c 31ha and falls quite steeply from Park
Road in the north to Soane Street in the south. The topography in the central section
is dramatic, the many steep undulations being the result of C19 gravel extraction.
The extent of the surrounding town, the proximity of buildings along all perimeters
and the size of many perimeter trees mean that there are no significant views out
of the site.
ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES The park can be approached from any of its four sides and
each has one major lodged entrance. The oldest entrance leads directly to the front
of the Mansion from the southern boundary although the existing lodge, gateway and
curved wall are by the architect J S Corder and are late C19 century (c 1898, all
listed grade II) in origin. This C19 carriage drive approach was remodelled in 1924
to the layout used today (1998). The entrance from Henley Road leads into the Upper
Arboretum and is adorned by a small, mid C19 lodge in the rustic 'cottage' style.
The Park Road gate piers to the north (listed grade II) are late C19, as are the houses
flanking the gates (listed grade II) which were built to look like lodges but have
always been part of the private residential development along Park Road. This entrance
leads into the park along the tree-lined avenue depicted in Kirby's map of the estate
dated 1735 which runs due south towards the back of the Mansion. It is currently (1998)
edged by a double avenue consisting of a row of lime at the back with mixed lime,
horse chestnut and sweet chestnut of various ages in front. The Westerfield Road entrance
has no lodge and leads to a wide drive which runs east/west across the park crossing
the north avenue, whilst the Bolton Lane gate enters just north of the Mansion with
a small lodge and gate piers built in 1896 (also by the architect J S Corder and listed
grade II). There are also a number of small footpath entrances and the wide Bridle
Way which stills runs north/south on the west side of the park dividing the Upper
and Lower Arboreta.
PRINCIPAL BUILDING Christchurch Mansion (listed grade I) lies at the southern end
of the park, along the Bolton Lane boundary, and is a fine example of a C16 red-brick
mansion. The original house, built by Edmund Withypoll between 1548 and 1550, survives
in the lower two storeys on the south front and in the east and west wings, all of
which are decorated with blue-brick diaper work. Elizabeth I visited Ipswich in 1561
and is said to have stayed at the Mansion, providing a possible reason for an extension
to the west wing prior to 1600 (souvenir guide 1989). The upper storey of the Mansion
was added by the sixth Viscount Hereford in c 1674 following the fire and the remodelled
house is depicted on one of a series of sketches which surround Ogilby's map of the
same year. This shows dormer gables in the Flemish style and a porch adorned with
balustrade and classical columns. During the C18 the Fonnereau family carried out
further remodelling, adding sashed and pedimented windows, and a north-east wing c
1735. Their house is depicted in an engraving dated 1819. Since 1896, after ownership
passed to the town, the Mansion has been open as a museum. In 1924, a Tudor merchant's
house, saved from demolition at Major's Corner in the town, was moved and reconstructed
on the north side of Christchurch Mansion. A further extension to the north was added
in 1932 and opened as an art gallery.
GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS Little remains of the gardens which surrounded the Mansion
when it was in private ownership although the garden area is bounded to the south-east
by a brick wall, partly C16, on the line of and incorporating the enclosure wall of
the Priory. Forecourts and bowling greens to the south and east are now laid to lawn
with a few specimen trees and shrubs. To the rear of the Mansion is a small formal
garden (unknown date) of low yew hedges and stone garden furniture.
PARK The park can be divided in three distinct character areas: the northern area,
the southern area around the Mansion, and the two arboreta to the west. The north
has a strong C19 parkland character of open areas of rolling grassland punctuated
by groups of trees and scattered individuals. It contains some very old specimens
of pollarded sweet chestnut and of oak as well as the double avenue which runs from
Park Road to the Mansion. In the centre of the park both the density of planting and
severity of topography increase. This area also contains a number of built features
including a C19 drinking fountain, a Cabman's Shelter (listed grade II), a late C19
covered seat (now a refreshment kiosk) and a modern children's play area. The Cabman's
Shelter was erected in the park in 1895; it is currently (1998) under cover following
a fire.
The southern end of the park, close to the Mansion, contains many more features added
when the town purchased and developed the park. These include a Martyr's Memorial
(listed grade II) by the architect H T Edwards, dated 1903 and situated 50m north
of the Mansion; The Cenotaph (listed grade II) by E Adams, erected 170m west of the
Mansion in 1923; and the Boer War Memorial (listed grade II) 70m south-west of the
Mansion and brought to the park in the early C20. Approximately 30m from the north-west
corner of the Mansion lies the Round Pond (dating from at least 1674 when it is depicted
by Ogilby) and 750m north-west from this the Wilderness Pond with its island (recorded
by Kirby in 1735). These are all that remain of the earlier gardens. All through this
part of the park the planting of both trees and shrubs is much more dense and diverse
and the area is covered with many criss-crossing paths.
To the west, the Lower Arboretum is taken up mainly by six tennis courts and croquet
facilities, surrounded by dense mixed tree and shrub planting, including some mature
exotics such as eucalyptus. Along the western shore of Wilderness Pond (c 1735 or
earlier) is an area of rockwork with modern planting and paths cut through. A steep
bank rises up to the west to the Bridle Way and this is planted with mixed evergreen
species, including some large holm oak of particular note. Several crossings over
the Bridle Way, a wide, straight, tarmac path bordered by wire fencing, lead into
the Upper Arboretum, the southern end of which consists of a flat lawn edged with
trees where a mid C19 bandstand/shelter is situated. The centrally situated entrance
off Henley Road is laid to lawns cut with bedding and contains an Italianate drinking
fountain (listed grade II) given by John Brett and erected in 1862. North of the entrance
the Arboretum becomes very undulating, with steeply cut paths bordered by shrubberies
leading to a further area of lawn edged with large trees.
KITCHEN GARDEN Ogilby's map of 1674 shows a kitchen garden lying west of the Soane
Street approach to the Mansion, below the main area of decorative parterres. The area
existed into the early C18 (Kirby's estate map) but Pennington's map of Ipswich dated
1778 suggests that by then the kitchen garden plot may have become absorbed into the
formal garden area and by 1849 the Tithe map shows a 'walled in garden' to the north-east
of the Mansion, possibly the site of a replacement kitchen garden. The 1st edition
OS 25" map published in 1886 certainly shows the 'walled in garden' crossed with paths
and adorned with a well and an area of glass. This however is one of the boundary
areas sold off in 1894 to be developed for housing and there remains only one length
of wall within the registered boundary which could have its origins in this structure.
REFERENCES
T K Cromwell, Excursions in the county of Suffolk (1819), p 124 White, Directory of
Suffolk (1855), p 78 East Suffolk Illustrated (1908), p 272 Christopher Morris, The
Journeys of Celia Fiennes (1947), p 144 Country Life, 116 (12 August 1954), p 496;
(19 August 1954), p 572; (26 August 1954), p 644; no 19 (12 May 1988), p 136 N Pevsner
and E Radcliffe, The Buildings of England: Suffolk (1975), p 298 Eric Sandon, Suffolk
Houses: A Study of Domestic Architecture (nd), p 47 Christchurch Mansion and Park,
Ipswich: An illustrated souvenir, (Ipswich Borough Council 1989)
Maps [all held in East Suffolk Record Office] J Ogilby, The borough corporation of
Ipswich, 1674 J Kirby, Plan of Christchurch Estate belonging to Tho' Fonnereau surveyed
AD1735 I Pennington, A map of the town of Ipswich, 1778 Tithe map of the town of Ipswich,
1849
OS 6" to 1 mile: 1st edition published 1890 2nd edition published 1905 3rd edition
published 1928 OS 25" to 1 mile: 1st edition published 1886 2nd edition published
1904 3rd edition published 1927
Archival items East Suffolk Record Office holds a collection of illustrations of Christchurch,
many of which are postcards (K4/85).
Description written: August 1998 Amended: June 1999 Register Inspector: EMP Edited:
December 1999
This garden or other land is registered under the Historic Buildings and Ancient Monuments Act 1953 within the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens by Historic England for its special historic interest.