Identification and description | |||||||||||||||||||
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Name | HYLANDS PARK | ||||||||||||||||||
Location |
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Localisation | Latitude: 51.711300 Longitude: 0.43660364 National Grid Reference: TL 68438 04206 Map: Download a full scale map (PDF) |
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Overview | Heritage Category: Park and Garden Grade: II* List Entry Number: 1000197 Date first listed: 01-Jul-1987 |
A public park since 1966, these late C19 gardens are set within a park of early C18
origin for which Humphry Repton produced a Red Book in the early C19 and which was
further enlarged in the mid C19.
HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT
The earliest reference to the place-name Highlands is in 1500 when Thomas Hawkin died,
leaving Highlands Field to the Vicar of Writtle. Sometime between 1723 and 1726 John
Comyns bought the manor of Shackstones in Writtle and c 1728 built a house on a site
south of the old farm/manor house, which he called 'Highlands' (Morant 1768). The
layout of the grounds around it were recorded by Chapman and Andre in 1777 and show
a park of c 100 acres (c 41ha) with simple formal gardens and a walled kitchen garden
beside the house. These are described in sale particulars of 1795, prepared when,
after three generations of Comyns, John Richard sold Hylands in 1797. The purchaser
was Cornelius Henrickson Kortright, a Danish merchant. He added c 150 acres (c 62ha)
to the park and commissioned Humphry Repton (1752-1818) to transform both house and
park. An article in the Chelmsford Chronicle in 1839 refers to the Red Book which
was produced for Hylands but this has subsequently been lost. An estate map of 1814
however probably records the work of Repton, showing changes to the approach roads,
extensions to the park, a new site for the kitchen garden, and a serpentine lake along
the new north boundary. In 1814 the estate was purchased by Pierre Caesar Labouchere,
a Dutch-born banker. When he moved to Hylands permanently in 1821, he extended the
park further and commissioned the replacement of the C18 greenhouse with a magnificent
280' (c 86m) long conservatory, possibly designed by the architect William Atkinson.
Atkinson was paid to design glasshouses for the new kitchen garden which was developed
from 1824 onwards by Francis Nieman on the eastern boundary of the park. A fruit cage
was also designed but its exact location is uncertain. In the pleasure grounds, Labouchere
turned the walled garden into a flower garden. Following Pierre's death in 1839, his
son sold Hylands to John Attwood, a wealthy industrialist from Birmingham and it is
at this time that Repton's Red Book appears to have left the house. Between 1842 and
1845 Attwood commissioned John Buonarotti Papworth to embellish and enlarge the house,
while he greatly enlarged the park and built a brick wall all along the eastern boundary.
Failing finances forced Attwood to attempt to sell Hylands in 1854, but no buyer was
found until 1858 when Arthur Pryor bought the core of 843 acres (c 351ha). He demolished
part of the wall of the flower garden and reduced the size of the conservatory but
otherwise maintained the gardens well, leaving the estate to his son in 1904, who
let it to Sir Daniel Gooch. Sir Daniel purchased the property in 1907 and commissioned
Frederick Chancellor to make improvements to the house. In 1923 the house and its
park were purchased by Mr and Mrs John Hanbury, Mrs Hanbury remaining at Hylands until
1962. During this time she altered the gardens, built a tennis lawn and east terrace,
and made a ha-ha in front of the house. Following her death in 1962 Hylands was left
to three nieces and the house was damaged by fire. In 1965 the executors put Hylands
up for sale and the following year it was purchased by Chelmsford Borough Council.
The park and gardens have since been made available for public use while the house
has been subject to a major restoration scheme since 1985. The site remains (2000)
in public ownership.
DESCRIPTION
LOCATION, AREA, BOUNDARIES, LANDFORM, SETTING Hylands Park lies just beyond the west-south-west
edge of Chelmsford, on the south-west boundary of Widford. The c 233ha site occupies
an urban-edge setting, with farmland extending away to the south and west. Hylands
is bounded to the east by the A12 which links Chelmsford to the M25. This boundary
is marked by a brick park wall, originally erected in the mid C19 but moved to its
present (2000) position, along with its gates, in 1939 when the A12 was made. The
southern boundary is formed by a stream with a golf course beyond, while the west
is bounded by farmland. To the north the park is enclosed by the late C20 Writtle
bypass which has isolated Writtle Lodge from the body of the park. The undulating
ground falls gently from Hylands house which stands in the centre of the park on a
slight platform. The main slope is to the north-east towards the course of the River
Wid which flows through the north-east corner of the park, beyond which are views
to Widford church spire.
ENTRANCES AND APPROACHES There are two gated entrances to Hylands Park along the A12
boundary. The main entrance, in the centre of the east wall, is marked by tall iron
gates hung on stone gate piers. Known as the Widford Gate, it was created after c
1841 to replace the earlier Widford Gate which was located c 400m to the north, linked
to a drive (now lost) proposed by Repton. The east drive runs west and then turns
north-west to arrive at the gravelled forecourt below the south front of the house.
At the southern end of the eastern boundary wall a second pair of iron gates, known
as the London Gate, are hung on red-brick gate piers and lead to the south drive (after
c 1815 but following advice from Repton) which runs north through the park to meet
the east drive c 220m south-east of the house. In the north-west corner of the park,
c 1.4km north-north-west of the house, stands Writtle Lodge which was built in the
mid C19 when John Attwood extended the park. The Lodge is now detached from the drive
and is connected to the park by an underpass beneath the Writtle bypass. The drive,
partly lined with oak, runs south and south-east through the park along the line of
the pre-1841 Writtle to Ingatestone road. It then curves east around the southern
boundary of the pleasure grounds to arrive at the south front.
PRINCIPAL BUILDING Hylands (listed grade II*) is a large, cream, stuccoed winged mansion
in the Neoclassical style. The imposing south front has a two-storey, seven-bay central
block with a great Ionic portico and columns rising through two storeys (rebuilt 1986).
The lower five-bay flanking wings both have ground-storey Ionic colonnades. The seven-bay
central section was built as a red-brick Georgian mansion by John Comyns in c 1728.
In the early C19, following advice from Humphry Repton, Cornelius Kortright added
the portico and the east wing and covered the whole house in white stucco. The architect
who detailed this work is not known, but it may have been J A Repton. In 1815, following
its purchase by Pierre Labouchere, the balancing west wing was added. In 1842, the
architect J B Papworth produced plans for John Attwood which resulted in the east
wing being rebuilt, as well as the north wall of the west wing. Both wings were increased
to two storeys and a further storey added to the central core. A new porte-cochère
and servants' quarters which connected the house to the stables were added. During
the late C20 these mid C19 alterations were removed, the house being restored to its
early C19 form.
Immediately to the west-north-west of the house are the early C19 red-brick stable
buildings and coach house, which form three sides of a courtyard, open on the south
side and with a central clock tower on the east range. These were built at the beginning
of the C19 by Labouchere, presumably as part of the Repton proposals.
GARDENS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS The gardens surround the house to east, north, and west
and are almost entirely enclosed by a tree belt and in part by a ha-ha. The ha-ha
was constructed in the early C19 and was added to in the early C20. Beyond the gravelled
forecourt below the south front a lawn is divided from the park by a curved ha-ha
added by Mrs Hanbury in the 1930s. Below the east front a small 1920s terraced rose
garden, remodelled in 1998/9, leads to a flagstone bridge over the ha-ha.
A lawn extends from the north front and is bounded to east and west by informal shrub
borders, those to the east enclosing a tennis lawn built in the early C20 by Mrs Hanbury
and now bounded by a low stone wall added in the late C20. At the north-east boundary
of the lawn are large rhododendron borders planted in the early C20, which now (2000)
obscure the view into the park and to the water.
The main body of the gardens and pleasure grounds lies to the north-west of the house.
Paths cut through mixed species evergreen shrubs and trees lead to glades. The largest
compartment is laid to lawn with an ornate bedding scheme, set beside a raised lily
pool flanked by wisteria arches. This open area also represents the position of the
earlier kitchen garden, possibly moved here by Repton at the beginning of the C19
when the shrubbery was created and subsequently developed as a flower garden with
the building of the conservatory in 1824. The walls and most of the conservatory were
demolished by the beginning of the C20. The pleasure grounds also contain a small
informal pool c 200m to the north-west of the house, shown in its present position
on the 1814 estate map.
PARK The extensive park at Hylands is heavily planted with trees of varying species
and ages, with more open areas of grass to the north and south of the house. It is
enclosed on all sides by plantations, which have been increased in depth during the
C20. There are several large woodland blocks, many of which, including Lake Plantation
and Icehouse Plantation (within which stands the ruin of the pre-1795 icehouse) to
the north and Pond Plantation to the south, contain pools and ponds, while midway
along the western boundary stands South Wood, an ancient woodland shown on the 1777
county map (Chapman and Andre). A serpentine lake with two small islands lies c 650m
to the north-east of the house, now (2000) obscured by C20 tree growth along its banks.
Beyond this, meadows flank the path of the River Wid which flows across the north-east
corner of the park.
The early C19 flint estate cottage (originally thatched) and the Home Farm lie c 300m
to the west-north-west and west of the house respectively, on the edge of what was
the boundary of the earliest part of the park which dates from the early C18. Following
advice from Humphry Repton, Cornelius Kortright and Pierre Labouchere extended the
park in the early C19, firstly to the north as far as the River Wid and then to the
south-west as far the London to Chelmsford road. Presumably under Repton's instruction,
the drives were rearranged, trees were planted, and the small lake created (estate
map, 1814). During the middle of the C19 John Attwood made further extensions, to
the south, west and north.
KITCHEN GARDEN The walled kitchen garden lies on the eastern boundary of the park,
c 400m to the south-east of the house. It is divided into two walled compartments
which are currently (2000) not cultivated. No glasshouses survive although archaeological
excavations in 1996 revealed foundations. The walled kitchen garden was moved to this
position by Pierre Labouchere sometime around 1824 when he invited Francis Nieman
from Haarlem to lay them out and to practise the Dutch method of forcing. A cherry
orchard was also laid out at that time although its precise location is uncertain.
When the A12 was built in 1939, the eastern part of the walled gardens was lost, and
the boundary wall rebuilt.
REFERENCES
P Morant, The History and Antiquities of the County of Essex (1763-8) P Muilman, A
New and Complete History of Essex I, (1771) Peacock, Polite Repository (1804 edn)
J P Neale, Views of seats ... 1, (1819), p 274 [engraving] Gardener's Magazine, (March
1828) Transaction of the Roy Hortic Soc 7, (1828) T Wright, The Picturesque Beauties
of Great Britain (1831), p 28 Chelmsford Chronicle, (July 1839) D Stroud, Humphry
Repton (1962), p 170 N Pevsner and E Radcliffe, The Buildings of England: Essex (1979),
p 426 G Carter et al, Humphry Repton (1982), p 151 Country Life, 178 (19 December
1985), pp 1996-7 E Abraham, Hylands, an architectural history (1988) S Foreman, Hylands,
the story of an Essex country house and its owners (1990) Hylands Park, Chelmsford
Management Plan, (Scott Wilson Resource Consultants 1999) F Cowell and G Green, Repton
in Essex (2000), pp 81-2
Maps J Chapman and P Andre, A map of the county of Essex from an actual survey ...,
1777 (Essex Record Office) M J Mason, Survey of Writtle and Widford, 1814 (D/Dan P1),
(Essex Record Office) Tithe map for Widford parish, c 1841 (D/CT 399), (Essex Record
Office) Printed map of the Hylands estate, 1853 (D/DC 27/526), (Essex Record Office)
OS Surveyor's drawings, 1799 (British Library Maps) OS 6" to 1 mile: 1st edition published
1874 2nd edition published 1898 OS 25" to 1 mile: 2nd edition published 1896
Archival items Col Whitmore, Watercolours, 1808 (Gloucestershire Record Office) Sale
catalogues 1795, 1814, 1854, 1920 (D/DHi T47), (Essex Record Office) Photographs of
the garden by Fred Spalding, pre 1901 (Essex Record Office)
Description written: December 2000 Amended: April 2001 Register Inspector: EMP Edited:
September 2001
This garden or other land is registered under the Historic Buildings and Ancient Monuments Act 1953 within the Register of Historic Parks and Gardens by Historic England for its special historic interest.